Great Value From Opposite Ends of the Boot
Sicily's Other Great Varieties: Feudo Montoni's Nero d'Avola & Catarratto
There’s a little-known spot in the middle of Sicily with incredible viticultural treasures.
Feudo Montoni's vines are isolated from the rest of the island's viticulture, a small oasis of vineyards surrounded by a sea of golden wheat and ancient olive groves. This isolation has worked like magic to keep the phylloxera pest away. And no phylloxera here means no grafting necessary: these vines are own-rooted and some are hundreds of years old. Scientists believe this is the birthplace of Nero d'Avola.
Whether it's the original Nero or not, it's a very special one. A lot of Nero d’Avola is grown with one goal in mind: maximizing yields to produce as much wine as humanly possible. You take high-yielding vines, graft them onto super productive rootstock, plant them in fertile soil; the resulting wines are ripe, juicy, and fruity, perhaps fine-tuned in the cellar with oak additions or other winemaking wizardry, but they’re not necessarily compelling.
Feudo Montoni's wines, on the other hand, could come from nowhere else. The vineyards are high and the nights are cold, so the grapes retain acidity and freshness. High winds keep away disease. The sandy soils provide delicate aromatics, elegance and lift and the underlying clay holds provides substance. The ancient root systems dig deep conveys a fine minerality. Feudo Montoni farms organically to preserve the unique ecosystem.
Feudo Montoni, Nero d'Avola "Vigna Lagnusa", 2021 $25.99
“The 2022 Nero d'Avola Lagnusa is perfumed with a fresh mix of wild berries and spices accentuated by hints of blood orange. It's soft-textured and lifted in feel with vibrant acidity and crisp wild berry fruit. The 2022 finishes energetic and pleasantly tart, puckering the cheeks while keeping the mouth watering for more." Eric Guido, Vinous
Feudo Montoni, Catarratto Del Masso, 2023 $24.99
“The 2023 Catarratto del Masso is sweetly floral, wafting up with hints of chamomile, peach and sweet smoke. It washes across the palate with juicy acidity and crisp orchard fruits, gaining depth through a core of salty minerality. The 2023 lingers long with a saline tinge and sour citrus tones that add lovely tension.” Eric Guido, Vinous
Montepulciano is a funny grape because, unlike Nebbiolo, which is associated exclusively with noble wines, Montepulciano runs the gamut from mass-produced jug wine to some of the most sought-after reds in Italy (like Emidio Pepe’s or Valentini’s). For some, it is a workhorse grape. For a small handful of others, like Torre dei Beati, it is a perfect vehicle for expressing Abruzzese terroir through wines of power and grace.
Torre dei Beati’s vines, planted by proprietor Fausto Albanesi’s father in the early 1970s, couldn’t be better situated. On one side mountains loom, and on the other side, salty breezes sweep up from the Adriatic. Wind and altitude make for cold summer nights — often below 40 degrees — despite days that climb into the 90s. This is so critical for developing ripe, concentrated grapes that maintain freshness and equilibrium. The winds also clear the vineyards of insects, making it fairly easy for Albanesi to maintain the vineyards organically. This is perfect Montepulciano country, and it’s no surprise that Valentini’s Montepulciano vines are located right next door.
In addition to the Cerasuolo, Albanesi makes a classic table red wine with his Montepulciano. It is, simply put, the best under $20 everyday red that you can buy from Italy, and it is no wonder that we have been selling it since the day we opened. What other Italian wine at this price point is aged through two winters in large wooden casks before release?
It's in their step-up Montepulciano (“Cocciapazza”, or "crazy head") where you start to get those Valentini vibes. It comes from a single plot at 250 meters of elevation, planted 52 years ago. It is made to be a grand wine, with extended barrel aging, and it tastes that way, with depth and complexity that go way beyond its relatively modest price point. Buy 3 bottles, drink one now (decant!), and open the others in 3 and 5 years time.
Despite the famous names, this is still an overlooked region. It’s a bit like Chablis, where the two top producers command prices that are three to five times those of neighbors’ wines that are extremely close in quality. The gap is especially stark with today’s discounts:
Torre dei Beati, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Organic, 2021 $22.99
Torre dei Beati, Montepulciano D'Abruzzo "Cocciapazza", 2020 $42.99
|
This story was originally featured in our newsletter, where it was offered at a special subscribers-only discount. Subscribers get special offers, the first look at new discoveries, invites to events, and stories about wines and the artisans that make them. |
