Neal Rosenthal has worked with the Brovias for decades, since he imported the 1978, one of the great years of the last half century for sure.
The farming here by the Brovia sisters Cristina & Elena and Elena's husband, Alex, is natural, using zero chemicals in the vineyard. This approach continues in the cellar where the indigenous-yeast fermentations in old, glass-lined concrete tanks took about a month this vintage. Always a pretty old-fashioned house, Brovia has recommitted to more traditional elevage. In 2008 they reintroduced large Slavonian casks for the first 18 months of aging, followed by another year and a half in French oak (previously, the wood was all French; both are 30hL).
But the best part is the family's vineyards. With holdings in Altenasso (Garblèt Sue'), Villero, and Rocche di Castiglione, Brovia underscores Castiglione Falletto's crossroads nature. Standing at the meeting point of Serralunga's Helvetian limestone soils of in the east and the sandier Tortonian ones to the west, CF vineyards vary enormously, and Brovia's bottlings offer a unique annual survey of what's happening in the zone.
And, as if that weren't enough, there are the vines in Serralunga at Brea, a cru that was featured in Renato Ratti's famous '70s-era map of Barolo's top sites, but which fell off collectors' radar for many decades. Preeminent cartographer and Barolo expert Alessandro Masnaghetti credits the Brovias with returning Brea to its former high regard.
Professional Reviews
Antonio Galloni
AG
95
"An exotic, flashy beauty, the 2007 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia boasts gorgeous depth and raciness. This is one of the more voluptuous wines in this vertical. As always, the Rocche is the Brovia Barolo that is most marked in warmer years. The 2007 is an especially dense, racy Rocche, but it nevertheless possesses terrific overall balance, a testament to Rocche's position as one of the truly great vineyard sites in Barolo. Hints of rose petal, mint, licorice and red stone fruits wrap around the super-expressive finish. Giacinto Brovia used to say in his 60 harvests 2007 was a vintage without precedent. 'It was a very relaxed harvest,' adds Cristina Brovia, 'because it never rained. We were never forced to pick under the threat of poor weather.' According to Elena Brovia 'Things were harder in the cellar. Sugars and alcohols were higher than normal.'" -Vinous
Robert Parker
RP
96
"The 2007 Barolo Rocche emerges from the glass with freshly cut roses, sweet berries and spices. The Rocche is always the most open of Brovia’s single vineyard Baroli. In 2007 the wine has an extra dimension of textural richness that makes it incredibly appealing even at this young stage. Floral notes reappear on the silky, pure finish. This is a fabulous showing, but the wine will be even better in a few years."
Wine Enthusiast
WE
92
"Barolo Rocche opens with inky-dark concentration, chewy ripe cherry flavors and lingering hints of cola, mint and licorice. The more the wine opens in the glass, the more it evolves aromatically to include tones of barbecue, mesquite and smoke."
Details
-
Grape Variety
-
Vintage
2007
-
Size
750ml
-
Farming Practice
Sustainable
-
Style
Silky