Superb, Meursault-Inspired Chardonnay from Willamette's Morgen Long
"...the wines are as good as ever, if not better... While enjoyable upon release, these are profoundly complex and transparent to the site, with a capacity to mature beautifully over time."
—Eric Guido, Vinous
We are living in a golden age of Chardonnay in Oregon. Over the last seven or eight years, the Willamette Valley Chardonnay conversation has gained startling momentum, and for good reason. The Chardonnays coming out of this region, one of North America's most exciting and dynamic, have found a voice and become seriously compelling, thanks to a combination of better genetic material, better farming practices, better understanding, and, frankly, better recognition.
Even with this abundance of great Chardonnays, the list of producers driving that explosive "When did these get so good?" conversation is a relatively small one. From Portland wine bars to Salem crushpads, there's one name that just about the entire Oregon wine industry agrees on: Seth Morgen Long.
Seth is a former sommelier who began working harvests in the Willamette Valley in 2009 and 2010. But it was a gig in Meursault, at Domaine de Montille, that cemented his passion for Chardonnay. "In Meursault," Seth says, "I discovered the blueprint for my life’s great work in the Willamette Valley."
He is unique in the Willamette Valley in his devotion to 100% Chardonnay production—a model that would have seemed ridiculous in Pinot country even ten years ago. But Oregon's pioneering spirit has proven more than once to be the perfect incubator for obsession, and when it meets tenacity and talent, as is the case with Seth's spectacular Chardonnays, wine lovers win.
The style is unmistakable, a study in reduction harnessed by bright, searing acid. After malolactic is complete (Seth avoids bâttonage) and the wines have spent one year in barrel, they are transferred to stainless steel for further aging, and only bottled at 18 months. It is the encouragement of reduction combined with a focused hum of acidity and the gift of time before bottling that give his wines their signature balance. But they need time — at least 3-4 years, and ideally more.
Willamette Valley wine devotees already know Seth sources his fruit from some of the best sites in the region, but today we're offering a perfect introduction to the lineup: his Willamette Valley cuvée, sourced from the Durant, Seven Springs, X Omni, Witness Tree, Blue Heron, Von Oeshen, and Yamhill Vineyards. It's an ideal way to get a sense of his style without having to wait a few years to enjoy the results––this wine will sing for you from day one. And because we snatched up as much of it as we could get our hands on, we can offer it to you today at best-in-the-nation pricing.
Morgen Long, Chardonnay Willamette Valley, 2022 $71.99
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