Neal Rosenthal has worked with the Brovias for decades, since he imported the 1978, one of the great years of the last half century for sure.
The farming here by the Brovia sisters Cristina & Elena and Elena's husband, Alex, is natural, using zero chemicals in the vineyard. This approach continues in the cellar where the indigenous-yeast fermentations in old, glass-lined concrete tanks took about a month this vintage. Always a pretty old-fashioned house, Brovia has recommitted to more traditional elevage. In 2008 they reintroduced large Slavonian casks for the first 18 months of aging, followed by another year and a half in French oak (previously, the wood was all French; both are 30hL).
But the best part is the family's vineyards. With holdings in Altenasso (Garblèt Sue'), Villero, and Rocche di Castiglione, Brovia underscores Castiglione Falletto's crossroads nature. Standing at the meeting point of Serralunga's Helvetian limestone soils of in the east and the sandier Tortonian ones to the west, CF vineyards vary enormously, and Brovia's bottlings offer a unique annual survey of what's happening in the zone.
And, as if that weren't enough, there are the vines in Serralunga at Brea, a cru that was featured in Renato Ratti's famous '70s-era map of Barolo's top sites, but which fell off collectors' radar for many decades. Preeminent cartographer and Barolo expert Alessandro Masnaghetti credits the Brovias with returning Brea to its former high regard.
Professional Reviews
Antonio Galloni
AG
96
"The 2013 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca' Mia captures the essence of this striking hillside site. A host of lavender, violet, menthol, licorice and tar notes open up first. Wonderfully translucent and yet powerful, the 2013 bristles with energy and pure class. Here, too, the tannins are remarkably polished for a young Serralunga Barolo. Dense, dark and powerful, with nearly buried tannins, the 2013 Ca' Mia is a superb wine with a very bright future." -Vinous
Wine Enthusiast
WE
97
"This textbook Barolo’s new leather, cake spice and menthol aromas jump out of the glass. On the firmly structured palate, cinnamon and licorice notes underscore red cherry, cranberry and orange zest flavors. Tight, noble tannins and bright acidity provide the framework, suggesting it will age beautifully for decades"