Visiting Cantina Giuseppe Mascarello & Figli is in some ways a bit like traveling back in time: the winery is full of ancient, enormous botti, and though the largest casks are no longer in use, the family traditions still reign. Fermentations are slow, in concrete and steel; aging is long, in large oak botti ranging from 20 to 70 years of age. There are no tricks to doll the wines up. Farming decisions are made with an eye not only to the current vintage, but to future generations of Mascarellos.
However visiting Mascarello isn’t just stepping into the past: a visit is being welcomed into a space where you can feel the profound connection between the present and what has come before, the thread that ties today’s Piedmont to its rich and wonderful history.
Elena and her brother, Giuseppe, are the latest Mascarellos to carry the thread forward, and they're doing it beautifully, which shows in the wines. The family has some of Piedmont's greatest terroirs, including Monprivato (often called “the Musigny of Barolo”). They do what they need to do to allow those terroirs to shine year after year, in each new vintage’s unique voice.
Professional Reviews
Robert Parker
RP
95
"These wines from Mauro Mascarello and his family all need more time to open, but rest assured they are heading down the right path. Like the others, the 2013 Barolo Monprivato is taking its sweet time. The wine opens to a brilliant ruby hue. This beautiful color intensity and even tonality is very characteristic of this cooler vintage. The wine is still on the nervous side, with tight tannins and cooling acidity. But it is also very elegant and fine in terms of its aromatic output. It will gain more volume and intensity with time. My score seeks to underline where this wine will be in a decade or more."
Wine Spectator
WS
96
"A perfumed style, boasting floral, cherry, kirsch and licorice flavors. Slightly chewy, yet elegant overall, with fine balance and a lingering finish of macerated cherry, earth and tobacco notes. Shows fine length and intensity, leaving an essence of mineral."
Wine Enthusiast
WE
97
"Elegant and fragrant, this radiant wine opens with classic Nebbiolo aromas of forest floor, crushed herb, dried rose, wild berry and a whiff of new leather. The focused, ethereal palate sneaks up on you, offering red cherry, spiced cranberry, wild strawberry and licorice alongside firm, ultra-refined tannins. Bright acidity lends balance, energy and tension. It’s still youthfully austere so give it time to develop even more complexity."