The wines of Priorat blew up back in the ‘90s, thanks to blockbuster bottlings made by producers who pursued a richer, oakier, and ultimately more international style. Some of these dark, concentrated wines even won... Read More
The wines of Priorat blew up back in the ‘90s, thanks to blockbuster bottlings made by producers who pursued a richer, oakier, and ultimately more international style. Some of these dark, concentrated wines even won 100-point scores from leading wine critics of the day!
But it made us wonder what a more traditional, unfettered Priorat tasted like. If you peeled away a bit of the flash and density, would you uncover a compelling sense of place? Would that wine be delicious?
Cims de Porrera shows the answer to both questions is a resounding "yes!"
Cims de Porrera is a relatively new project and a new discovery by former Chambers Street Wine buyer (and newly-minted importer) Ariana Rolich. The winery was started in 1996 by Luis Llach and the Ovejero family (Mas Martinet). They partnered with local cooperative of Porrera, paying farmers more to tend their old-vines of Caranyana and Garnatxa grapes in a quality-conscious way.
The strategy has paid off: these are stunning wines with a real identity, every bit as deserving of acclaim as their more bombastic contemporaries. They still have plenty of concentration (100 year-old vines will do that), but also a subtle, soulful beauty.