Robert Parker

"While the corresponding La Chapelle des Bois appeared from cask to have had an edge on Duperray’s 2010 Fleurie Les Moriers Tres Vieilles Vignes, from bottle this dramatically different wine – which he describes as “the nose of Fleurie with the palate of Moulin-a-Vent” – is no less impressive than its immediate sibling. Deeply concentrated plum and cherry fruit are allied to iodine-tinged saline, sweet shrimp shell reduction intimated already in the nose and serving for saliva gland-milking in an amazingly thrusting, gripping finish. White pepper and musky rose radish tweak the nostrils and re-emerge as an invigorating adjunct that encourages me to imagine that a profoundly intense Gruner Veltliner Smaragd had been blended-in. Nutmeg and toasted pecan complement the intense ripeness of fruit, which however never turns superficially sweet thanks in large part to its sheer freshness and to the aforementioned biting invigoration."