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Bottle of Lopez de Heredia, Rioja Blanco Gran Reserva 'Tondonia', 2004 [DO NOT SELL, NET] - White Wine - Flatiron Wines & Spirits - New York

Lopez de Heredia, Rioja Blanco Gran Reserva 'Tondonia', 2004

White Wine from Rioja, Spain
by Lopez de Heredia

$249.99

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One of the many clichés employed by the wine world is the adjective “traditional”. However, there is one winery where that adjective very appropriately applies. Little about López de Heredia has changed in the more than 130 years since its founding. It occupies the same historic cellars and unlike most of their competitors, which are now owned by outside investors, López de Heredia is owned, and every detail of its operation is handled by the family who founded it.

Due to the way the industry has evolved in Rioja, most bodegas buy grapes from dozens of small growers, but not López de Heredia. They own every inch of the vineyards that supply their wines. In addition, they eschew any use of commercial yeasts and rely only natural yeasts present in their ancient cellar.

A visit to Lopez makes this all very clear. When you descend into the cellar you are met with a rush of cool air tinged with the telltale odor of penicillin. Carved out of solid rock, fifty feet underground, the cellars are at a constant 54 degrees, perfectly situated for the aging of wine and the cultivation of friendly microbes. The walls are black and wet with the occasional patch of white mold. Inside you will find 12,900 American oak barrels and 72 ancient fermenters as well as one of the worlds great collection of cobwebs.

The bodega is now in the capable hands of the family’s youngest generation—Maria José, Mercedes and Julio César. Yet, still nothing changes. In fact, these three are as philosophically committed to the winery’s traditions as their parents and grandparents were before them.

The wines are always masterful but in certain vintages can be transcendent. Lopéz labels their wines in all three rioja categories, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Technically almost all of their wines meet the regions criteria for Gran Reserva but as usual they do it the old ways, making Gran Reserva only in exceptional vintage.

Professional Reviews

Robert Parker

RP 94
"The 2004 Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva will be released sometime in 2017, and the difference with the Gravonia is 10% of very old Malvasía Riojana that provides a unique perfume and sophistication. It feels very young and primary, impossible to guess its age. The Viura is similar to the one from Gravonia, old and on clay and limestone soils; the white grapes always on whiter, stonier soils. Fermentation was carried out in their 140-year-old oak vats with natural yeasts (a constant here), where it goes through malolactic fermentation. The nose seems less developed than in the 2007 Gravonia, younger and livelier. Even after six years in oak, the wine is not oaky, but the aromas are subtle and even a little shy. The palate is austere and it feels a little stiff, with lively acidity and pungent flavors. This feels like a superb year for this bottling, it's clear that it's a great vintage."

Decanter

D 97
"A great wine in a great vintage: Tondonia is unique. Aged for six years in wood, this cuvée of Viura with 10% Malvasia ages brilliantly, with nutty, mature, almost Sherry-like notes, remarkable freshness, acidity, and incredible grace and length."

Wine Spectator

WS 95
"This distinctive white shows its age in the deep gold color, but still has life and structure. Hazelnut, vanilla and lanolin flavors frame a core of dried apple and coconut notes, while keen acidity and light tannins keep this focused. Dense, complex and harmonious."

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Macabeo

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Elegant , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied