Pierre-Marie Chermette

Chermette, somehow, hasn't become as big a name as the Lapierres and Foillards, of Morgon. And Pierre-Marie Chermette isn't a young hipster pushing the outer bounds of vin naturel. He's a 58-year-old dude who was born among his family's vines, and is now stewarding the family domaine and preserving the old family practices.

It's not clear why the wines aren't trendier. They have it all. Pierre-Marie and family make wines that couldn't be any more of their place. Each wine in their lineup expresses terroir so perfectly, and so deliciously that they're ideal for for anyone who wants to study the region. They are alive with the lithe texture and pretty fruit of Gamay that's been vinified traditionally, with semi-carbonic fermentation.