Just in the nick of time, the New York Times' Eric Asimov has released a brand-new 20 Under $20 column. With the doldrums of February approaching, it's important to enjoy the small things that bring pleasure, and for many of us (all of us?) a glass of well-made wine is exactly that. Add in a great meal, and now you're cooking with gas.

Yvon Metras has long been Beaujolais' elusive man of mystery. To French winemakers (and drinkers) he is, along with neighbors Lapierre and Foillard, one of the "fathers of natural wine".

La is Lara Rochetti, Lu is Luisa Sala. Together they are Lalu, and today they make extremely sought-after Nebbiolo and Barolo. We have the Nebbiolo for you today.