Wines for the Ultra Geek

Some wines are easy to understand. Self-evidently delicious. Other wines are obscure. They go this way, then that way. Sometimes they're the result of ancient traditions (like Georgian wine), and sometimes of novel experimentation.

These wines aren't for everyone. You can think of them as the organ meats of the wine world: a little hard to get into at first, but pleasing -- even rewarding -- in a way that nothing else is.

So, if you have someone on your list who always orders the sweetbreads, who is fascinated by the history of the dishes and wines she samples, and who isn't scared off by flavors that don't conform to a glossy magazine conception of "delicious"... these are the wines you want!