Visiting Cantina Giuseppe Mascarello & Figli is in some ways a bit like traveling back in time: the winery is full of ancient, enormous botti, and though the largest casks are no longer in use, the family traditions still reign. Fermentations are slow, in concrete and steel; aging is long, in large oak botti ranging from 20 to 70 years of age. There are no tricks to doll the wines up. Farming decisions are made with an eye not only to the current vintage, but to future generations of Mascarellos.
However visiting Mascarello isn’t just stepping into the past: a visit is being welcomed into a space where you can feel the profound connection between the present and what has come before, the thread that ties today’s Piedmont to its rich and wonderful history.
Elena and her brother, Giuseppe, are the latest Mascarellos to carry the thread forward, and they're doing it beautifully, which shows in the wines. The family has some of Piedmont's greatest terroirs, including Monprivato (often called “the Musigny of Barolo”). They do what they need to do to allow those terroirs to shine year after year, in each new vintage’s unique voice.
Professional Reviews
Antonio Galloni
AG88
"The 2010 Barolo Perno Vigna Santo Stefano comes across as austere and stripped of fruit, with a hollow mid-palate and but little in the way of real depth. The long, grippy finish and firm incisive tanins typical of the Barolos of Perno is present, but otherwise, the signatures of this site aren't fully expressive. Note the slightly revised name of this wine, starting with the 2010 vintage: Barolo Perno Vigna Santo Stefano" -Antonio Galloni
Robert Parker
RP94
"Nebbiolo enthusiasts will be charmed by the 2010 Barolo Vigna Santo Stefano Perno. This beautiful expression offers ample grace and elegance with focused sharpness and a carefully delineated feel. The bouquet reveals tones of wild berry, crushed mineral, white pepper and dried ginger. The wine's balsamic characteristics help to amplify its beauty and delicate intensity. Nuanced tones of rose petal and dried violets appear softly on the long finish." -Monica Larner
Jancis Robinson
JR17
"Stony nose with hints of liquorice, and savoury rather than showing fruit. Loads of liquorice on the palate, and a savoury and grainy finish with completely integrated acidity."
Wine Spectator
WS95
"Broad and muscular, with assertive tannins and cherry, menthol and balsamic flavors." -Bruce Sanderson
Wine Enthusiast
WE94
"Aromas of underbrush, tilled soil, woodland berry and crushed rose unfold in the glass. The firm palate offers mature red cherry, strawberry, clove, mint and licorice alongside tightly knit, austere tannins that need to unwind. It's still young and wound up but should evolve majestically over the next decade and then maintain for years. Drink 2020–2040."
Kerin O'Keefe
WE94
"Aromas of underbrush, tilled soil, woodland berry and crushed rose unfold in the glass. The firm palate offers mature red cherry, strawberry, clove, mint and licorice alongside tightly knit, austere tannins that need to unwind. It’s still young and wound up but should evolve majestically over the next decade and then maintain for years."
