Provence is known for rosé, but in a hidden limestone amphitheatre not far from Aix, the Rougier family has been quietly making some of France's most profound wines — in all shades — for nearly 200 years.

Château Simone's wines are favorites in top restaurants in France, yet in America they’re still barely known outside of a small legion of hardcore fans — even though they’ve forever been on the cusp of being “discovered.”

In his book Reflexions, Richard Olney wrote of visits to the Château and enjoying old bottles at dinner in between — or sometimes during — discussion of visits from Kermit Lynch, Alice Waters, etc. The legendary Neal Rosenthal imports the wine now, but still, it is very niche.

In Neal’s own words: “A newcomer to Simone is liable to be stunned by the assertive aromatics of the Blanc — pine resin, lanolin, blasted limestone — not to mention its singular texture, simultaneously oily and elegant.” Not necessarily easy drinking, but it is very good drinking and a wine that can age forever. We’ve had twenty year old bottles that were gloriously complex and still youthful.

The red may seem a little more accessible at first. It’s mostly Grenache and Mourvedre — an easy analog for loers of traditional Bandol or lighter-framed Châteauneuf. But it has its own special character that may come in part from the limestone soils, the surrounding forest, and the unique exposure. Or it may come from the insane list of supporting grapes: in additional to the familiar (Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon) there is Castet, Manosquin, Théoulier, Tibouren, Picpoul Noir, and Muscat de Hambourg. With time, it too evolves in ever more unique directions, but always with the limestone, fruit, garrigue and spice.

Will Simone go the way of Valentini and Emidio Pepe? Or Chave and Lafite (table-mates, chez Olney)? We’ve given up guessing. We’ll just keep buying and enjoying the wines while we can. Click below if you’d like to get some, too.

Chateau Simone, Palette Blanc, 2020 $72.99
Tasting notes don’t do it justice: it’s like a walk in a French garden after the rain, slippery but elegant. And magical with food: it has layers of flavor that come up with food – and bring flavors out of the food too.

Chateau Simone, Palette Rouge, 2019 $69.99
Neal calls it “tenacious but ultimately elegant,” which is apt. But it’s also complex and straight up delicious – and also great with food.