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The Greats of Burgundy Move South: Boisson's Marvelous Mâcon

Stylized image of Pierre Boisson, Mâcon-Villages, 2021

We have talked frequently in this newsletter about how the Mâcon is waking up to become one of the world’s greatest sources of Chardonnay, and at prices that remain incredibly interesting. Part of this comes from the traditional producers of the area, such as the Clos des Rocs, that Valerie recently emailed about. These producers are finally able to sell their wines at high enough prices (albeit still modest!) so they can upgrade their facilities, age their wines for longer, and reduce yields. This has led to a cycle of better and better wines from the region.

But it is a slightly different phenomenon at play in today’s story. Most of us have heard about Dominique Lafon’s adventure in the Mâcon, as it has now been a successful story for over 20 years. This Meursault master continues to release affordable Chardonnays from the Mâcon every year. They do not taste like his Meursault, but they do share with his Meursault the rigorous dedication to quality that is shared by the top producers of the Côte d’Or.

Lafon is not the only one. The great Domaine Leflaive has also been releasing wines from the Mâcon in recent vintages. And we just learned that Domaine Drouhin has acquired vineyards in Saint-Véran, and that we have a 2025 Drouhin Saint-Véran to look forward to.

Today’s Mâcon, however, feels like it snuck up on us. Who knew that Pierre Boisson, one of our very favorite producers of Meursault, was taking part in these southward adventures? Apparently, he’s only been doing it for a few vintages.

We have just acquired (and tasted) the 2021 and it is stunning. Interestingly, unlike Lafon’s Mâcons, which really taste of Mâcon more than anything else, Boisson’s version shows more of the winery’s Mersault-esque qualities. Is it because they are using the same barrels, those amazing barrels that are acquired from Boisson’s childhood friend, Coche? We don’t know. It is hard to get information about this wine. But we do know that it is delicious. And also limited: depending on the number of requests received, we may have to impose a bottle limit on purchases.

Pierre Boisson, Mâcon-Villages, 2021 $37.99


This story was originally featured in our newsletter, where it was offered at a special subscribers-only discount. Subscribers get special offers, the first look at new discoveries, invites to events, and stories about wines and the artisans that make them.