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Mousse Fils, Champagne L’Or d’Eugene Perpetuelle Blanc de Noirs Brut, NV

$69.99

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cépage: 80% Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir | assemblage: 50% 2016, 50% 2003- 2015 | village/vineyard: Cuisles, Jonquery, Olizy, Châtillon-sur-Marne | malo: Yes | élevage: stainless steel | sur latte: 24 months

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Pinot Meunier has always played "third fiddle" to Champagne's power couple, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Growers always liked having it around because it buds later than PN and Chard, which means it's less likely to be damaged by the late frosts that can hit Champagne so far north--especially in the Marne Valley. For growers it meant diversification.

For drinkers, on the other hand, it was an unglamorous variety that often came across as rustic or rough-edged. But that perception has been changing. Culty producers like Jerome Prevost and Raphael Bereche make highly sought-after Meunier-based wines. And even below the superstar level there's a whole generation of small growers who have started putting out really delicious Meunier-focused champagnes that don't break the bank.

Cedric Moussé is a classic example. When he took over the family estate in 2003 he was the 12th generation to run things. He practices organic farming and makes wines that are precise, savory, and bright-fruited, with no oak influence. They show Meunier's pretty side: purity of fruit, white flowers, subtle herbal tones, and they show its terroir transparency, with clear mineral signatures.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 92
"The NV Brut Blanc de Noir L'Or d'Eugene Perpetuelle is 80% Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir based on 2018, plus reserve wines. Sweet, perfumed aromatics immediately convey a feeling of sensuality and exoticism. Mirabelle plum, rose petal, spice and mint are all beautifully lifted. Soft, silky and open-knit, the L'Or d'Eugene is a fabulous choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. The fruit profile of the red grapes is front and center. Dosage is 3.5 grams per liter." -Vinous

Robert Parker

RP 94
"A blend of 80% Pinot Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir drawn from a solera established in 2003, the latest rendition of Moussé's NV Brut Blanc de Noirs L'Or d'Eugène was disgorged in June 2019 with four grams per liter dosage. Wafting from the glass with a deep and complex bouquet of golden orchard fruit, honeycomb, mirabelle plum, candied peel and fresh pastry, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a rich and sapid core of fruit, lively acids and a delicate pinpoint mousse." -Robert Parker

What importer Skurnik Wines has to say about this wine...

cépage 80% Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir
assemblage 50% 2018, 50% 2003-2017
village/vyd Cuisles, Jonquery, Châtillon-sur-Marne
malo Yes
élevage Stainless steel
sur latte 18+ Months
dégorgement September 2020 – November 2020 (0.5)

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Meunier , Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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