Excellent clarity with a rich ruby color in the glass. The nose features gooseberries, blackcurrants, dusty rose, and dry tobacco leaf. On the palate, the wine is a tart and rich blend of black plum, blackberry, and cassis, with subtle notes of mountain fennel and a hint of wood smoke.
The Tyrolean geology of metamorphic rock with gneiss and schist helps these vines generate a linear, focused acidity that is gorgeous both on the palate and in the glass. Make no mistake, this wine is not just for veal schnitzel, speck, knödel, or Tiroler grösti (but what great food pairings!); it has enough acid to stand up to rich tomato sauces, a juicy filet mignon, and is flexible enough to work with Mexican and South American spices as well. Easier yet, it is a fabulous wine to drink by itself in the late afternoon in the garden, and then transition to pair with a cheese plate or artichoke dip.
The 2023 is drinking fabulously right now, but the wine will easily age 5-8 years retaining the fruit, structure, acidity and tannin that it showcases. Much of the general public fails to try the stunning quality that Lagrein offers in a similar style to pinot noir/ spätburgunder, and this winemaker delivers a product that compares favorably to $100 bottles of single vineyard pinot in the USA.
-Jim van Bergen for JvB UnCorked, New York City.