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Domaine Dujac, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, 2022

$1,199.00

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Even very casual consumers of Burgundy have likely heard of Domaine Dujac, considered one of the very best producers in Morey-Saint-Denis. This is a rather astounding fact given that the Domaine is only 50 years old, a blink in the eye given the region's winemaking history.

When Jacques Seysses purchased the estate of Marcel Graillet in 1967, it was in disrepair and had been selling fruit off in bulk for some years. In less then a decade he had invested heavily in the property and found customers for his domaine bottled wines. The Dujac name begin to be seen at top restaurants in France and beyond.

Fast forward 20 years and you have Jacques' sons, Alec and Jeremy, taking over the reigns of the now expanded Domaine, with holdings in Gevrey, Chambolle, Vosne, Nuits and Puligny. Today Jeremy and his wife Diana Snowden (herself from a prominent wine-making family in Napa) are largely responsible for the operations.

The winemaking has evolved. Jacques was famous for using 100% whole clusters and 100% new oak. Jeremy and Diana are the first to tell you that adaptation is key. The climate is changing dramatically in Burgundy, and every vintage presents new challenges. Stem use is between 20% and 100%, depending on the vintage and the vineyard. Same goes for oak use. On a visit there last spring Jeremy was excited to show us his concrete egg tanks that were aging the Puligny-Montrachets.

All of this is to say that this now storied Domaine is in very good hands as it heads into the future.

Professional Reviews

Burghound

BH 96
"From a 1.95 ha holding in 5 different climats. An expressive, ripe and airy nose features the relatively primary essence of plum liqueur, kirsch, spice and earth notes. The strikingly intense and sleek larger-bodied flavors possess only average concentration yet there is impressive power on the moderately austere and beautifully long finish that tightens up noticeable as it sits on the palate. I suspect that this will flesh out and add richness with time in bottle though like several wines in the range, this is going to require extended patience."

Antonio Galloni

AG 96
"The 2022 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a little more intensity on the nose than the Clos Saint-Denis: principally black fruit laced with hints of licorice and clove and veins of blueberry and cassis. The aromatics expand with aeration, gaining vigor all the time. The medium-bodied palate has grippy tannins and quite a bold structure but may not have the precision of the very best that I have encountered. Very saline on the aftertaste - this will require time to shave its edges in bottle." -Vinous

Robert Parker

RP 97
"The 2022 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru on this encounter was so pure and suave that one might have mistaken it for the Clos Saint-Denis. Offering up aromas of raspberries, cherries, sweet spices, orange zest and peony, it's full-bodied, supple and seamless, with a deep core of fruit, sweet, powdery tannins and a long, sapid finish. There is more underlying muscle and tannin here, however, and I would be surprised to see that assert itself a little more obviously in bottle. Harvest at Domaine Dujac began on August 29. At the time, Jeremy Seysses thought of the vintage as potentially reminiscent of 2018—tasting the wines this winter, he feels that they're more delicate, while also admitting that he was even more cautious about extraction in 2022. Whatever the apposite analogy, the result is clear: a superb portfolio of beautifully balanced wines that unite charm and density. Readers, of course, will be familiar with the outlines of the Dujac approach to producing red Burgundy: organic farming, fermentation with a predominance of whole clusters and élevage in barrels largely sourced from Tonnellerie Rémond. None of that seems to have changed in 2022, despite a new winery where stainless steel vats have replaced concrete. The wines retain, nay exalt in, their distinctive identity."

Decanter

D 96
"The 2022 Clos de la Roche from Dujac is a wine of impressive concentration, even if it is not so loveable at this point. It seems (along with the Clos Saint-Denis) to be a bit austere, but a ripe, plummy fruit opens up on the palate with nuances of smoke, earth and spice. Despite the slight austerity at this stage, this is impressively long, powerful, and nuanced, and one imagines sweet fruit will develop with time. The grapes are from their six parcels scattered throughout the climat, accounting for almost two hectares; the wine is now doing its second winter ageing in cask."

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Natural

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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