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Nervi-Conterno, Gattinara, 2021

$99.99

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As the oldest estate in the Gattinara DOCG, Nervi has long been a reference point for Alto Piemonte. Since Roberto Conterno took over in 2018, the wines have taken on even more precision, polish, and cellar potential—without losing the high-altitude finesse that defines Gattinara.

The 2021 vintage is shaping up to be a classic: cool, balanced, and naturally structured. This wine opens with pure red cherry, orange peel, rose petal, and crushed herbs, layered over volcanic minerality and fine-grained tannins. Compared to Barolo, it’s more angular, more savory—less about power, more about lift and clarity.

Aged in large neutral botti, the wine avoids any oak gloss, letting Nebbiolo’s detail and the site’s natural acidity shine. Drink it young with a decant for a brisk, linear experience, or lay it down—Nervi Gattinara is quietly age-worthy, and one of the best values in the Conterno universe.

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In early 2018, Nebbiolo lovers everywhere became happier than a pig in truffles, when news broke that Roberto Conterno, of iconic Barolo cantina Giacomo Conterno, had officially purchased the historic Nervi estate in Gattinara.

One of Roberto’s many admirable traits is his commitment to uphold the meticulous standards that have earned the Conterno family wines their legendary status. He does not take expansion lightly, acquiring new vineyards with a level of deliberation and forethought that would make Daniel Day-Lewis’ role choices seem like hasty decisions.

In fact, Roberto has had a long relationship with Nervi, as somewhat of an unofficial advisor and close friend for many years prior to becoming the winemaker of this ancient estate, with holdings in the appellation’s most revered crus.

Of the ‘Alto Piemonte’ regions (those north of Barolo in the foothills of the Alps separating Italy and Switzerland), Gattinara is arguably the most exciting, thanks to its unique terroir: a vein of volcanic gravel, on steep, high-elevation slopes. The effect of extreme climate swings coax a distinct minerality and a tender fragility from nebbiolo, all without compromising their longevity. Indeed, some of the finest old nebbiolo we’ve experienced have been Nervi bottlings dating back to the cantina’s heydays of the 50’s and 60’s.

While talk of great terroir is certainly relevant, what cannot be overstated is that Conterno is unquestionably one of the greatest winemakers in the world.

Unfortunately, there have never really been days of affordable Conterno nebbiolo...until now. His masterful approach and studious dedication makes this third bottling of Nervi-Conterno a truly exciting chapter.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 91
"The 2021 Gattinara is brilliant and finely cut. In 2021, the Gattinara is a sinewy, tense wine with bright acids and finely sculpted fruit front and center. Sweet red berries, cedar, pipe tobacco and freshly cut flowers all grace this expressive Gattinara from Conterno-Nervi. The ethereal finish is sublime."

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

Vineyard
Sourced from the Molsino, Valferana, Garavoglie, and Casacce vineyards.
Soil
Volcanic soil rich in minerals and clay - with good drainage.
Viticulture
Hand-harvested.
Vinification
Gentle destemming and crushing, fermentation in stainless steel vats at controlled temperatures. Macerated for about three to four weeks following the completion of alcoholic fermentation. Malolactic fermentation following alcoholic fermentation in oak barrels.
Aging
Aged for about three years in large oak barrels.

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied