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Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes, 2019

$129.99
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2019 Domaine Hubert et Olivier Lamy Saint Aubin 1er Cru  "Les Frionnes"  90-93 points BHSweet spot Outstanding

"Exuberantly fresh with its even cooler nose of grapefruit, Granny Smith apples and overtly floral aromas. There is equally good intensity to the wonderfully textured medium weight flavors that flash good minerality on the driving finish that is also bone-dry. Lovely stuff." 

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Olivier Lamy is one of the rare burgundy producers who seems to be equally good at making red and white wine. He is endlessly experimenting and wants to achieve new heights in grape growing and winemaking. He is fanatic about pruning - where some growers might give up on a certain vine, Olivier will cut out diseased portions and coax a damaged vine back to health. This resurrected vine may only produce a few grapes but those grapes have such intense flavor.

Since 1995 he has been steadily increasing the vine density of his vineyards to 14,000 per hectare (compared to the standard density in Burgundy of 10,000; it's far less in other parts of the world). Some are planted at 4,000- 5,000 per hectare. He studied that before the phylloxera epidemic when vines were not planted in rows that vine densities were much greater - so he planted a section of one Saint Aubin vineyard at a density of 30,000 vines per hectare which puts great stress on the vines and reduces yields increasing flavor intensity, extract and acidity. He serves this wine last in a tasting.

There are no recipes at Chez Lamy - he harvests when the grapes are ripe which might be before or after his neighbors. He uses between 10-30% new oak at most but he may use none. The vineyards are farmed more or less organically but he will spray if he needs to fight mildew or oidium. These are uncompromising wines of coiled power and great tension - red or white.

Professional Reviews

Burghound

BH 93
"This is also exuberantly fresh with its even cooler nose of grapefruit, Granny Smith apples and overtly floral aromas. There is equally good intensity to the wonderfully textured medium weight flavors that flash good minerality on the driving finish that is also bone-dry. Lovely stuff though at least some patience is suggested."

Antonio Galloni

AG 94
"The 2019 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru has a very taut, Puligny-like nose with wet limestone and flinty aromas accompanying the Granny Smith apples. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, superb salinity with a vibrant, animated finish that feels reassuringly persistent. Pure class." -Vinous

Robert Parker

RP 93
"The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is showing especially well, unfurling in the glass with hints of citrus pith, white flowers, crisp green apple and mandarin. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's saline and penetrating, with a bright spine of acidity. This will be well worth seeking out."

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2019

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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