In Piedmont, like in Burgundy, it’s important to pay attention to first names. Domenico Clerico is known as one of Barolo's leading modernists. But his cousin, Francesco, is at the complete opposite end of the... Read More

In Piedmont, like in Burgundy, it’s important to pay attention to first names. Domenico Clerico is known as one of Barolo's leading modernists. But his cousin, Francesco, is at the complete opposite end of the spectrum.

You probably haven’t heard of Francesco. Unless, maybe, you've run into legal problems in Turin, where he was a cop for decades. But that’s not very likely. Is it?

When Francesco retired from policing he took over the tiny estate in Monforte that his father’s father had purchased in the late 1800s. Already advanced in years, he nonetheless decided to shake things up. His father had sold off his wine in bulk; Francesco started bottling it under his own name for the first time. He also abandoned all chemical treatments and began practicing organics and traditional farming—save for a single old tractor that helps to plow.

In the cellar, he continued the traditional work, with long macerations, natural fermentations, aging only in giant botti, and no fining or filtration. If he made more wine, and had been doing it for longer, he would probably now be heralded as one of the great traditionalists. Instead, well, he just isn't that well known.