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Mullineux, Chenin Blanc Old Vines 'Granite', 2023

$91.99

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Mullineux’s 2023 Granite Chenin Blanc comes from their highest-altitude old-vine block—47-year-old bush vines planted on decomposed granite atop Paardeberg in Swartland. Vineyards are dry-farmed, hand-harvested, and whole-bunch pressed. Fermented naturally and aged 10–11 months in 4th‑fill French oak, the wine is bottled unfiltered.

This single‑terroir expression delivers linear structure and saline minerality. The granite soils yield bright fruit and firm acidity, making it a taut, age-worthy benchmark in their “Single Terroir” series

Mullineux Family Wines was established in 2007 in the Swartland region of South Africa, by Chris and Andrea Mullineux. The Swartland is South Africa's wine frontier. Located an hour's drive away from the the industry's qualitative and established center of Stellenbosch, the Swartland is rolling hills of wheat and jagged outcrops of old vines, remnants of a once industrious cooperative-fueled sector of the wine industry that built itself on volumes rather than quality. Mostly red and white Rhône varieties and old-vine Chenin Blanc vines dot the hillsides.

This along with Swartland kaleidoscopic variety of soil is what according to Chris made the Swartland a “no brainer” when it was time to establish their own winery. At the Mullineaux home vineyard in Riebeek Kasteel, they have a variety of schist and shale. But they’re not just restricting themselves to just one terroir type – they are leasing vineyard blocks across the region, from a range of soils, with 7 hectares across 21 different vineyards. Both had worked at Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards, a Swartland pioneer, making connections and relationships with farmers. Always keeping an eye out for the best growers, these connections would become invaluable when they decided to strike out on their own.

The Mullineux approach, in both the vineyard and winery, is to work as naturally as possible without compromising quality. The approach is pragmatic and not tied down to any dogma. Organic and biodynamic principles are applied in the vineyards and nothing is ever added to the wine except for a touch of sulfur. The idea is to get out of the way of terroir and to produce wines that are elegant and vibrant; true expressions of the Swartland.

Mullineux family wines has grown exponentially since the beginning. As well as producing wine under Mullineaux (appellation blend and single terroir bottlings), they make wines under the Kloof Street label. These fresh and too easy to drink, modestly priced bottles may be a touch simpler than their older siblings but they are made in the same exacting terroir forward manner.

With the help of an investor, Chris and Andrea have begun a new project and winery in Franshoek. Known as Leeu Passan it opened up the possibility of working with new, exciting vineyards and varieties, some outside of Swartland. Many of these vineyards are quite old, including 120 year old Cinsault and old-vine Chardonnay.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 93
"Sourced from the from the Eikelaan vineyard, the 2023 Chenin Blanc Granite comes 47-year-old vines on granitic, well-drained soils where the vines have bigger roots and canopies, thus providing more shade. It presents a well-defined bouquet that opens over five minutes, revealing hints of yellow plum, Mirabelle and wax resin. The palate is very nicely balanced and very complex, with an oily-textured opening. A touch of white pepper and orange rind emerges toward the finish. It’s the texture that really makes this a superb Granite Chenin Blanc." -Neal Martin

Robert Parker

RP 95
"The Mullineux 2023 Swartland Granite Chenin Blanc comes from one of three sites dedicated to this grape. Each is about 400 meters in elevation, and all three have bush vines that are harvested at the same ripeness. The major difference lies in the soils, with this vineyard on granite, sandy soils that allow the roots to reach down deep (as much as five meters underground). These vines have a bigger canopy as a result, and the fruit maintains the most natural acidity (and low pH). This wine is characterized by bright fruit flavors and a linear delivery with a salty, mineral-laced finish. It was the first of the three Chenin Blancs poured by Andrea Mullineux during our tasting." -Monica Larner

What importer Skurnik Wines has to say about this wine...

100% Chenin Blanc
Sourced from a 46-year-old dryland bush vine vineyard named Eikelaan (“lane of oak trees”)
This is the highest altitude granite soil vineyard on the Paardeberg
Hand harvested in the cool early morning hours
Whole bunch pressed to barrel and the juice was handled oxidatively
Fermented with indigenous yeasts, with minimal SO2 added after fermentation
Aged for 11 months on the lees in 4th fill 225L French oak barrels

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chenin Blanc

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied