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Nervi-Conterno, Gattinara Molsino, 2020

$159.99

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The Molsino vineyard is a natural amphitheater in Gattinara, planted to old-vine Nebbiolo on porphyritic volcanic soils at high elevation. After acquiring Nervi, Roberto Conterno (of Giacomo Conterno fame) brought Barolo-level intensity and precision to this historic estate, crafting wines that are both terroir-driven and exceptionally refined.

The 2020 vintage yielded a wine of depth and tension. Aromas of black cherry, dried rose, tar, and blood orange give way to a firmly structured palate, with muscular tannins, vibrant acidity, and a core of iron, stone, and spice. There's a sense of quiet power and verticality here—Molsino is less about charm and more about presence.

Fermented in wooden vats and aged in large botti, the wine stays true to traditional Nebbiolo, but with a Conterno polish that makes it a must-have for collectors. Drink from 2028 onward, or cellar for 20+ years to watch it evolve into something truly profound.

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In early 2018, Nebbiolo lovers everywhere became happier than a pig in truffles, when news broke that Roberto Conterno, of iconic Barolo cantina Giacomo Conterno, had officially purchased the historic Nervi estate in Gattinara.

One of Roberto’s many admirable traits is his commitment to uphold the meticulous standards that have earned the Conterno family wines their legendary status. He does not take expansion lightly, acquiring new vineyards with a level of deliberation and forethought that would make Daniel Day-Lewis’ role choices seem like hasty decisions.

In fact, Roberto has had a long relationship with Nervi, as somewhat of an unofficial advisor and close friend for many years prior to becoming the winemaker of this ancient estate, with holdings in the appellation’s most revered crus.

Of the ‘Alto Piemonte’ regions (those north of Barolo in the foothills of the Alps separating Italy and Switzerland), Gattinara is arguably the most exciting, thanks to its unique terroir: a vein of volcanic gravel, on steep, high-elevation slopes. The effect of extreme climate swings coax a distinct minerality and a tender fragility from nebbiolo, all without compromising their longevity. Indeed, some of the finest old nebbiolo we’ve experienced have been Nervi bottlings dating back to the cantina’s heydays of the 50’s and 60’s.

While talk of great terroir is certainly relevant, what cannot be overstated is that Conterno is unquestionably one of the greatest winemakers in the world.

Unfortunately, there have never really been days of affordable Conterno nebbiolo...until now. His masterful approach and studious dedication makes this third bottling of Nervi-Conterno a truly exciting chapter.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 97
"The 2020 Gattinara Molsino is a dark, brooding Gattinara. Black cherry, plum, licorice, crushed rocks, lavender and spice all race across the palate. A wine of somber intensity, the 2020 is built for the long haul. Deep and beguiling, firm tannins enshroud the long, building finish." -Antonio Galloni

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

Vineyard
The best grapes from the Molsino cru are selected for this bottling.
Orientation
350 to 420m in elevation.
Soil
Volcanic soil rich in minerals and clay - with good drainage.
Viticulture
Hand-harvested.
Vinification
Gentle destemming and crushing. Fermentation in truncated conical oak vats at controlled temperature.
Aging
Aged for about four years in large, wood vats.

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied