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Domaine de Montille, Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds, 2020

$249.00

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There is no address in Burgundy for which we have more affection than Domaine de Montille.

Anyone with a pumping heart was instantly charmed by the authenticity and humility of the late, great patriarch, Hubert de Montille. Unequivocal and confident in his ability to reveal greatness through transparency, it's difficult to distinguish whether we are talking about de Montille or the terroir of Volnay, and that is the mark of compelling Burgundy.

Hubert de Montille passed the reins at his famous domaine to his son Etienne about 20 years ago. He died about five years ago. Yet he is such a giant of a figure in Burgundy that it is still impossible to think about de Montille without thinking about Hubert. It helps that Hubert’s name remains on the label!

Hubert may be best known internationally for making hard-assed wines. He didn’t care what Robert Parker or anyone else said. He followed his own vision of Burgundy tradition, which included a fair bit of tannic extraction. His passion and determination earned him a starring role in Mondovino, the anti-globalization wine film by Jonathan Nossiter.

But Etienne changed things. He wanted more purity, less extraction. He was brought up with the likes of Christophe Roumier and other members of his generation, who wanted to emphasize fruit and terroir rather than structure. Almost right away, the style at de Montille changed.

People liked the wines, of course — they can show very well on release. But would they hold up the way his father’s legendary wines do? A recently consumed, and very beautiful, 2002 Pommard seemed to confirm the they age just fine! Will they go 40-50 years like his dad’s wines? Who knows, and who cares, other than your yet-to-be-born grandkids.

Professional Reviews

Burghound

BH 94
"A ripe but cool, pure and airy nose freely offers up its notes of plum liqueur, violet, lavender and wet stone. There is impressive intensity to the chiseled medium-bodied flavors that possess very fine mid-palate density as well as an almost aggressive minerality on the moderately austere, compact, long and balanced finale. This is excellent and historically, is a wine that always ages well."

Antonio Galloni

AG 95
"The 2020 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru comes from two parcels is 90% whole cluster. Brambly red berry fruit is mingling with black pepper, clove and touches of undergrowth. The palate is medium-bodied with quite succulent tannins, more rondeur here than the other Volnays, plush and quite luxuriant wiht a sensual and very pure finish. Superb." -Vinous

Decanter

D 95
"This has a ripe plummy fruit, with lots of depth from the notes of spice and smoke, and a firm core, yet absolutely no rough edges at all, just a polished elegance that lingers interminably on the palate. The de Montille family is from Volnay and this holding is among the central, historic parcels of the domaine. There are two parcels: the upper part, which is partly destemmed, and the lower section with more limestone gravel in the soil, where the oldest vines are found. This latter fruit is always fermented as 100% whole-cluster."

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

VINEYARD
The reputable 1er Cru of "Taillepieds" takes its name from its steep slope and the sharp stone on which the winegrowers "cut their feet" when working in the vines. De-Montille's parcel is mid-slope and has 80 year old vines. This is another "Grand Premier Cru" in the eyes of De Montille, which is why the vineyard supercedes the appellation/village on the label.
SOIL
Light brown soils with an abundace of pebbles. Much more gravelly than say, Clos des Chênes, by comparison. Fortunately, Taillepieds benefits from mountain top gravel, which has more salinity than river bed gravel.
VITICULTURE
Certified organic, practicing biodynamic
VINIFICATION
100% whole cluster fermantion. Regarding sulfur, reds have the following: 45-65 mg/l total SO2, 20-25 mg/l free SO2.
AGING
Aged 18-20 months in barrel (30% new), then assembled to age additional months in stainless steel.

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

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