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Chateau Gloria, Saint Julien, 2017

Red Wine from Bordeaux, France
by Chateau Gloria
$49.99
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A wine that drinks like a classified growth because it's built from them. Henri Martin started Gloria from scratch in 1942, buying six hectares from Beychevelle and then assembling the rest parcel by parcel, almost entirely from vineyards that had belonged to 1855 classified estates in Saint-Julien and Pauillac; the classification simply predates the property, so Gloria has always punched above its official station. The estate now runs to roughly fifty hectares of gravel, sand and clay, planted around 65% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Petit Verdot and a little Cabernet Franc, and is still in the family alongside their classified Chateau Saint-Pierre. The 2017 is the useful vintage in this range: a cooler, fresher year that produced medium-bodied, red-fruited Saint-Julien with real lift rather than muscle. That makes it the bottle to open while the 2016s and 2020s sleep in the cellar. Drinking well now and through the early 2030s; an hour in a decanter is plenty.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 2017 Gloria is just as delicious from bottle as it was from barrel. A rush of bright red cherry and plum fruit, blood orange, iron, dried flowers and mint gives the 2017 its sense of energy. Medium in body and full of character, Gloria is one of the highlights of the vintage. Don't miss it. Tasted two times." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

90 points

"An overperformer in the vintage, the 2017 Gloria exhibits attractive aromas of minty berries and cherries mingled with hints of baking chocolate and cigar wrapper. Medium-bodied, ample and fleshy, with an ample core of juicy fruit framed by melting tannins, this is an elegant, seamless Saint-Julien that already drinks very well." —William Kelley

Jancis Robinson

16.5 points

"Mid crimson. Lifted cassis and cassis leaf. A little austere but very fresh and with fine-line purity. Dry, dark-chocolate finish that leaves your mouth feeling clean."

Decanter

92 points

"Tight but plentiful fruit extraction. The expression is a little less full than in 2016, but there is both finesse and grip to the fine, firmly held tannins as they travel through the palate, accompanying cassis, fern, rosemary, heather and cigar box notes. Enjoyable stuff."

Wine Spectator

92 points

"Dark and winey in profile, with steeped plum, blackberry and black currant fruit that is youthfully coiled up, laced with bramble, apple wood and anise notes. Offers a compact finish but the energy is there. Let this unwind in the cellar. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2034."

Wine Enthusiast

93 points

"An attractive, immediately fruity wine, this also has good tannins. Enticing blackberry flavors give richness as well as freshness. This wine will develop quickly, so drink from 2023." —Roger Voss

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with tarragon, steak frites, duck breast with cherries, or a plate of jambon de Bayonne and aged Comte.

Tasting Profile

Red currant and black cherry with cedar, tobacco leaf and dried herbs. Medium-bodied, with fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Lifted and energetic rather than heavy, with a clean, savory finish. Dry.