An estate whose cellars sit in the town of Margaux itself, with five plots scattered through the commune — deep gravel, chalk and iron-laced clay, and vines here averaging around 45 years old. Michel Rolland consults here, and the vineyard now runs to 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, raised in French oak for a deliberately rich, polished house style that Margaux perfume keeps from turning heavy. 2017 was a testing year in Margaux — parts of the appellation were hit hard by the late-April frost, though many leading estates got off lightly, and this estate reportedly lost 10% of the crop to it and another 20% to later rains and rot. What made it through was farmed down to 38 hl/ha and bottled as a Cabernet-led blend with a large share of Merlot, aged 13 to 15 months in 70% new oak. That kind of sorting is exactly why the classified names in Margaux are worth paying attention to in a difficult year: the season started early but stayed cool, which left the 2017s with fresher fruit and better acidity than an early harvest usually gives you. The château recommends decanting its wines before serving, and this is a bottle to give some air.