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Chateau Musar, Bekaa Valley, 2004

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Seven years pass between harvest and release at Musar, and this bottle has had roughly fifteen more on top of that. The protocol behind the flagship red is genuinely strange and entirely deliberate: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan from organically farmed vineyards at around 1,000 meters in the Bekaa Valley are fermented separately in cement with ambient yeast, aged a year in French Nevers oak, blended, returned to cement, bottled unfined and unfiltered, then held four years in the deep stone cellars beneath the winery at Ghazir north of Beirut. Founded in 1930 and which kept making wine through all but a vintage or two of the fifteen-year civil war, Musar is the wine people reach for when they want to argue that terroir and time matter more than technique. At twenty-plus years the 2004 has fully unfurled into the exotic, savory, faintly wild register the estate is loved for, while keeping more freshness and grip than the older vintages. Drink it now, slowly, over an evening rather than an hour.

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Robert Parker

91 points

"The 2004 Chateau Musar is an equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsault. This is a rather civilized, laid back Musar. The complicated aging process is best described by the winery: “The wines spent nine months in cement vats and then a year in French Nevers oak barrels and the final blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan rested for another nine months in vats before being bottled?“ The winery describes this as a once-in-a-decade vintage where a heat wave caused notable increases in sugar content in a short time. I sometimes find that is a dangerous description of vineyard conditions with many risks for a winery, but it seems to have turned out well. If you’re comparing, it adds two layers of depth to the 2007 Hochar, although it is quite elegant and graceful in its own right. Most importantly, it has more of an obvious backbone even though it is late-released. Its balance, combining the nice fruit, elegant mid-palate, persistent finish and backbone, gives it a tightly wound, precise and focused demeanor. The tannins are not completely integrated, but not overly hard. They provided some welcome grip and vibrancy and never overwhelmed the wine. In the long run, they should serve this wine in good stead. Overall, it is an exceptionally graceful, somewhat modern and restrained Musar, bright, with that silky texture I saw in the Hochar reviewed this issue, while adding those layers of concentration. The cherry on top is the intensity of fruit flavor – bursts of delicious and juicy fruit on the finish, admittedly nuanced by some of the gamey notes I see here so often. Call it raspberry flavored, though, because the fruit is delicious. The gamey notes were in fact moderate and, at least for my taste, not an issue. As this rather subtle Musar aired out, I liked it more and more. I’ve had Musars that were bigger, burlier, more rustic and more astringent. Here, the subtle start was unremarkable, but it gathered steam, showed remarkable finesse and then won me over. This will certainly do better with food. Drink now-2021." —Mark Squires

Wine Enthusiast

88 points

"Enticing whiffs of spice, dried herb and ripe, briary berries emerge from this rich, structured wine. The fruit on the palate is lavish, almost pulpy, but it's framed by lush tannins and brisk acidity. The finish is herbal and bracing."

More about Chateau Musar

Founded in 1930 by Gaston Hochar, the vineyards of Chateau Musar located in the Bekaa Valley Lebanon has a truly storied history, overcoming decades of civil war to produce some of the most talked about wines of our time.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Cabernet Sauvignon , Cinsault

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Rich

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Lamb shoulder with seven spices, a full mezze spread with muhammara and kibbeh, grilled eggplant with pomegranate molasses, or aged sheep's milk cheese.

Tasting Profile

Dried fig, prune and preserved cherry with leather, black tea, dried herbs and sweet spice. Medium to full-bodied, tannins soft and resolved, acidity notably fresh and volatile in the good sense. Long, savory, unmistakably itself. Dry.