A dry Grosses Gewächs Riesling from a steep, high site above Neustadt — and it comes in magnum. Vogelsang rises above Neustadt on shell limestone (Muschelkalk), facing due south at 160 to 280 meters with a 25% slope, which is exactly the combination that gives a Pfalz Riesling both ripeness and a hard, saline spine. Christmann farms 2.7 hectares of the 8.5-hectare Grosse Lage, most of it Riesling, with the oldest vines planted in 1982 and 1983; the lower terraces, too steep for anything but partial hand work, went in more recently to massale selections brought from the Côte d'Or. Steffen and Sophie Christmann have farmed the site biodynamically since taking it on, with certification from the 2019 vintage. 2021 was the estate's return to a classic German growing season after a run of warm years: a cool, rather wetter summer that tested the estate, with late summer bringing the necessary warmth and sun, and that's the kind of year that makes Riesling people happy. This is a young wine in a format built for patience.