Of Chandon de Briailles' three Corton parcels, Les Maréchaudes is the one that gives itself up most readily — and at twenty-one years it is right in the heart of its window. The domaine owns 0.4 hectares of this 4.5-hectare climat, sitting just below Bressandes on the Aloxe flank of the hill, on iron-reddened clay strewn with limestone rock and carrying a little more topsoil than its neighbor above; the vines went in during 1974 and 1979, and the rows are worked by draft horse rather than tractor. Farming is organic and biodynamic, converted in 2005 and Demeter-certified since 2011, and the Pinot Noir ferments as whole clusters in open wooden cone vats before 15 to 18 months in the estate's Cistercian cellars, mostly in used barrels so the oak never speaks. 2005 brought concentration and acidity together across the Côte d'Or, which is why a Corton built for finesse rather than muscle still has this much life in it. This bottle comes from a private cellar. Decant it an hour ahead and use a big glass.