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Donnhoff, Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, 2023

White Wine from Nahe, Germany

$96.99

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The Felsenberg vineyard represents some of Nahe's finest terroir—steep slate soils creating wines of remarkable mineral intensity. Dönnhoff's Grosses Gewächs (German Grand Cru) designation indicates this is the dry expression at the estate's highest quality level. The 2023 vintage shows concentrated minerality from the stony soils, balanced by fresh stone fruit and citrus. At two years old, the wine occupies an ideal moment—young vibrancy intact, complexity beginning to emerge. The steep vineyard demands careful viticulture; Dönnhoff's hand-harvesting (2-3 passes) ensures only ripe, healthy grapes reach the cellar. This is a wine for those seeking mineral-driven German Riesling with real substance.

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Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 98
"The 2023 Riesling Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Felsentürmchen Grosses Gewächs is picked in the fully south-facing site of porphyry and melaphyr. Cornelius Dönnhoff says this is the most challenging site to work, simply because the stones are so hard and unforgiving, retaining almost no water. Thus, a year like 2023 was brilliant for this site. It is always the first GG site to be harvested because the rock retains heat from the day. Tender reduction still casts a flinty spell on the nose. Lovely savor implies crushed citrus foliage merged into iron oxide on the nose. The palate is taut, citric, bright with immense linearity, moving with absolute ease and direction, with energy and punch, towards a zesty, cool finish, long, sustained, all with savor and saltiness. The 2023 is a total joy of clarity, direction and stony poise. This is so elegant, so slender, so powerful, and no, this is not a contradiction." -Anne Krebiehl MW

Robert Parker

RP 95
"The 2023 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling trocken GG is beautifully pure, clear and bright or even coolish on the deep and complex nose that is still remarkably discreet but refined for this warm, volcanic terroir and offers elegant notes of melting stones and domestic seed fruits. Round, refined and elegant on the palate, this is a generous, juicy and fruity Riesling with fine tannins and a long, intense, spicy and aromatic, finely saline and mineral finish. This is a mouth-filling, complex and textured Riesling with crunchy tannins on the finish. It's a superb 2023 that should develop beautifully over the years in the bottle. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork." -Stephan Reinhardt

What importer Skurnik Wines has to say about this wine...

Variety: Riesling
Region: Nahe
Vineyard: Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg
Soil Type: Volcanic igneous rock, a mix of porphyry and melaphyr
Fermentation & Élevage: A mixture of stainless steel vats and neutral 10+-year-old 1200L German stückfass from Hösch

Details

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!

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