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Georges Laval, Champagne Brut Nature Les Chênes, 2016

$229.00
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Cumieres is Meunier country, so Chardonnay on the chalk here is already the exception — Les Chenes is a single south-facing parcel mid-slope at the eastern end of the village, with only a thin skin of clay and silt over the rock. Georges Laval converted the family's vines to organic farming in 1971, when barely ten growers in all of Champagne were doing it; his son Vincent has run the 2.5 hectares since 1996, spread across seven Premier Cru parcels that together yield only about a thousand cases a year. Everything is pressed in a tiny Coquard vertical press, fermented on wild yeasts in used casks, rested about ten months, and bottled with no fining, no filtration and very little sulfur. There is no dosage at all, which is why the chalk reads so plainly. 2016 was a brutal year in Champagne — frost and mildew took much of the crop before a hot, dry late summer rescued what was left — so this is small in quantity and serious in the glass. Open it in a white-wine glass, not a flute, and give it a few minutes.

Shipping

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Antonio Galloni

96 points

"The 2016 Brut Nature Les Chênes is rich, powerful and explosive. The purity of the Chardonnay is compelling. Yellow orchard fruit, white flowers, mint and white pepper are all buffered by the austerity of the Brut Nature style. The Chênes is not the easiest Champagne in the world to understand. It can seem a bit austere and unyielding - and to some degree it is - and yet there is so much character and pedigree to discover." —Antonio Galloni

More about Georges Laval

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    Champagne , 2016

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What has to say about this wine:

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Oysters, raw scallops, sole meuniere, roast chicken, or a young Comte.

Tasting Profile

Wet stone and chalk with spiced pear, quince, citrus oil and a nutty, anise-tinged edge from the barrel. Medium-bodied and completely dry, with fine bubbles, taut acidity and a long, salty finish.

Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!