2013 made some of the prettiest wines in the Cote de Nuits, and Les Cras is the Chambolle premier cru that gives all that prettiness something to hold onto. A cold, wet spring and poor flowering cut the crop roughly in half and pushed picking into October, so the reds came in light on tannin and long on freshness, graceful rather than grand, with Chambolle among the villages that fared best. Barthod's parcel is 0.86 hectares on the upper slope directly above the village, thin white topsoil high in active calcium on the same seam of hill as Bonnes-Mares, and it is the most mineral and most tightly wound wine she bottles. Her husband Louis Boillot tends these plots, and every parcel is fermented separately with native yeasts, partly destemmed, then aged around twenty months in barrel with about a quarter new oak. This is the magnum, from a private cellar: the larger format ages more slowly, so it reads a shade tighter and younger than the same wine in bottle. Drink now with a decant, or hold comfortably into the mid-2030s.