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Hirsch, Ried Gaisberg 1 OTW Kamptal DAC Riesling, 2018

White Wine from Kamptal, Austria
by Hirsch
$62.99
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The Gaisberg is a steep, southwest-facing slope of siliceous brown earth over weathered mica schist in the cool Kamptal, and it makes Riesling of laser focus and stony intensity. Johannes Hirsch farms it biodynamically, letting the site speak in a dry, mineral register that has nothing to do with the sweeter German style. This 2018 has settled into its stride, its fruit softening toward roundness while the vineyard's tension holds firm underneath. It's a Gaisberg Riesling drinking beautifully right now, with plenty left in the tank.

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Robert Parker

88 points

"The 2018 Riesling Zöbing Ried Gaisberg 1ÖTW is concentrated and ripe on the slightly flinty nose. Tight and fresh on the palate, this is a pretty phenolic but not astringent Veltliner for earlier consumption. Tasted at Schloss Grafenegg in September 2019." —Stephan Reinhardt

Wine Enthusiast

94 points

"Funky, flinty smoky reduction casts a promising spell on the nose. Underneath, tart red apple and ripe, juicy citrus do their thing. The palate picks up both fruit and yeastiness, suggesting that this needs bottle age, but all the elements for the future are aligned: vivid, expressive fruit, lovely concentration and balanced, juicy freshness. The finish is dry and mouthwatering. Drink 2025–2040." —Anne Krebiehl MW

More about

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2018

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast pork, pan-seared trout, choucroute, or richer cheeses that want acid to cut through.

Tasting Profile

Bone-dry and stony, with ripe citrus and stone fruit rounding out and a firm, mineral core.

One reason that Weingut Hirsch's wines are so good is that Johannes Hirsch did a lot of things first. He was one of the first in Austria to dump Chardonnay and really focus on Kamptal's great varieties of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. He was one of the first to farm biodynamically. He was first to switch all closures to stelvin. So he's had a longer time to perfect this style of hyper-artisanal winemaking than virtually anyone else in Austria.

There were hiccups along the way. Not everyone loved the Rieslings from the late aughts that ended up with some residual sugar. But it turns out that this was just what nature wanted to do in those vintages. And since then, Hirsch (and nature) have made nothing but classical, dry Grüners and Rieslings. He has avoided the trend towards higher octane Austrian wines that we have seen elsewhere. With lower alcohol levels, Hirsch shows the pure, crystalline essence of Austrian Grüners and Rieslings.