A dry Riesling made from over-100-year-old ungrafted vines on just two terraces of Zeppwingert, picked at a tiny yield of little golden berries and raised in a single 300-liter cask for two years on its full lees — one barrel's worth of the estate's oldest plantings. Zeppwingert is the dark grey slate cru that wraps around the famous Batterieberg on the hillside, and it's where Gernot Kollmann finds the deepest roots and the firmest, most powerfully built wines on the property; it's no accident that this is the site he reserves for his Réserve bottlings. The estate calls this the essence of great dry Mosel wine, and for once that's not marketing — the vine age, the yield and the lees time all point the same direction. Kollmann works with ambient yeast and almost nothing else, so what's in the glass is slate and old vines rather than cellar technique. Wines from these Enkirch slopes are famously long-lived. If you buy Mosel Riesling for depth and spice rather than sweetness, this is the bottle.