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Jean-Claude Lapalu, Brouilly Vieilles Vignes, 2023

$34.99
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Jean-Claude Lapalu is a true master of Beaujolais, crafting wines that capture both the vibrancy of Gamay and the depth of old vines. His Brouilly Vieilles Vignes comes from parcels of organically farmed, deeply rooted vines, some over 60 years old, planted in the granite-rich soils of Beaujolais’ southernmost cru. The 2023 vintage continues Lapalu’s tradition of expressive, terroir-driven winemaking, offering a Brouilly that is both joyful and surprisingly structured.

Bursting with wild raspberry, blackberry, and violets, the wine is supple yet precise, with a stony minerality that lends definition. There’s a gentle grip to the tannins, a reminder that this is no simple bistro Gamay, but a wine with real presence and aging potential. While it shines with a slight chill alongside charcuterie, roast chicken, or grilled vegetables, a few years in the cellar will only add to its complexity. A soulful, captivating Brouilly from one of the region’s greats.

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Between the old guard and the new of Beaujolais winemakers sits Jean-Claude Lapalu. Not quite from the generation of Metras, Lapierre and Foillard and a bit too mature to be part of the young gang that includes Julie Balagny and Pierre Cotton, Lapalu embodies the best qualities of both generations. Every wine he makes shows the synthesis between these two movements. With old vines and perfectly situated vineyards and a delicate touch with natural sensibilities in the cellar, Lapalu represents the balance in the nexus of Beaujolais winemaking styles.

Lapalu’s patchwork of vineyards are situated in the south of Beaujolais extending from Mount Brouilly to Saint-Etienne-la-Varenne. Here his east and southeast facing vineyards benefit from a more Mediterranean climatic influence than crus just a few miles to the north. Perhaps that is why it was cult Provençal cuvees that inspired him to start bottling his own wine in 1995 rather than continue to sell grapes to the co-op as his father and grandfather had.

Success was not instantaneous for Lapalu. He found himself too self-conscious to ask for help from the likes of Marcel Lapierre and his contemporaries so he kept his winemaking by the book. Over time, though, he discovered all he really needed was one thing: good grapes. And that he had in spades. Most of Lapalu’s vines are between 50 and 100+ years old. With that quality so easily apparent his wines began to become known outside the region. As his popularity grew so did the rate of exchange of ideas and every year his wines got better and better.

Today Lapalu boasts vineyards certified organic by Ecocert but with various biodynamic principles applied as he sees fit. He also employs a number of natural winemaking techniques in the cellar like carbonic and partial-carbonic maceration and vinification in glass-lined concrete tanks. Sulfur use is minimal. However, he also uses many traditional methods of vinification as well such as using a 19th century vertical press and elevage in used barriques or tonneaux for some of his cuvees. The combination of these two schools of thought reveals some of the truest expressions of Gamay in Brouilly and the whole of Beaujolais.

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

Vineyard
Sourced from 50+ year old vines in the Cru of Brouilly.
Soil
Granitic soils
Viticulture
Ecocertified (organic), in biodynamic conversion
Vinification
Grapes are chilled for 1 day, then into tank for carbonic maceration/fermentation for 12-14 days with indigenous yeasts.
Aging
Aged 5-6 months in tank, no fining, and no filtration (except the last 10% of the tank). 10-15 mg SO2 at bottling

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Gamay

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Natural

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

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