Trockenbeerenauslese from the family that made Austria's sweet wines famous, at nearly a quarter-century old and still fresh. Kracher works in Illmitz, in the Seewinkel marshland along the eastern shore of Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland, where evaporation off the shallow lakes throws heavy fog over the vines on autumn mornings and strong midday sun burns it off — a daily cycle that makes noble rot a near-annual gift here rather than a lucky accident. The estate numbers each vintage's lots in sequence and splits them between two styles; No. 3 in the twelve-wine 2002 collection is 100% Welschriesling in the "Zwischen den Seen" line, the half of the cellar that skips barrique altogether — this one raised 22 months in stainless steel, so nothing stands between you and the botrytis. Alois Kracher Jr., who made this wine and died in 2007, built his reputation on balance rather than sheer sugar: 208 grams of residual sugar held up by 6.7 grams of acidity, at only 10% alcohol. Sourced from a private cellar, it has developed the mushroomy, almost truffled depth that only time gives a great botrytis wine, and it has decades left; serve it at 10-12°C in small pours, and note that the half-bottle is exactly right for two people and a cheese course.