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Stéphane could have set up shop in Pommard, as the 5th generation farmer/winemaker at his family’s estate there. Finding the AOC’s rules and regulations too restrictive, though, he decamped to the mountains of the Savoie. Manual harvest and multiple passes are de rigeur, followed by long elevage and aging in a remarkable array of vessels, from neutral barrels to pyramid-shaped tanks hewed from stone. The Quintessence is silky, limpid and crystalline, with notes of pear, white flower and pillowy lemon curd.