Pélican's Savagnin & Trois Cépages: Burgundian Finesse in the Jura
Guillaume d’Angerville is famous for world class wines from Meursault and Volnay. But the Marquis d’Angerville is no one-trick pony. Several years ago he purchased land in the Jura, including some vines previously tended by revered Jura vigneron Jacques Puffeney. We’ve just received a shipment of wines from Domaine du Pelican, and they are as elegant, precise and delicious as ever.
The story goes that d’Angerville was tricked by a Parisian sommelier offering a blind tasting. The Marquis’ only stipulation was that Burgundy not be included — but what, if not white Burgundy, was this supple, mineral-driven Chardonnay that he was offered? It turned out to be an Arbois from the talented Stéphane Tissot, and it was the bottle that inspired him to put roots down in the Jura. In 2008, the hunt for land began.
He founded Domaine du Pelican by cobbling together three small purchases in and around Arbois; its inaugural vintage was 2012. In 2014, he bought vineyards from the retiring Puffeney, a turning point that indicated the degree of trust the locals had in the interloping d’Angerville.
With each vintage we’ve tasted, the beauty of pairing Burgundy know-how with the Jura’s unique terroir and grape varieties becomes more and more evident. We see that here, with Domaine du Pelican’s Savagnin and Trois Cépages (a blend of Trousseau, Poulsard, and Pinot Noir, the latter a testament to how closely intertwined Burgundy and Jura have always been).
These two delightful wines are distinctively of the Jura, with cutting minerality and deep, savory earthiness, but with a more Burgundian delicacy and elegance. You won’t mistake them for Meursault Chardonnay or Volnay Pinot Noir, but you’ll likely detect the masterful hand of one of Burgundy’s finest winemakers. These are staples of our Jura shelf, and while our allocation each year seems to grow smaller (as more savvy drinkers around the world catch on to the magic of this once-obscure region), we are so happy to have these to share with you today:
Domaine du Pelican (d'Angerville), Arbois Savagnin Ouillé, 2022 $59.99
This is topped up, or non-oxidative Savagnin, with notes of sun-dried herbs, waxy yellow fruit and hay, and a long, elegant and saline mineral finish.
Domaine du Pélican (d'Angerville), Arbois Cuvée Trois Cépages, 2022 $61.99
This wine gets its name from the 3 grapes (or Trois Cépages) in the blend: Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and Poulsard. 100% de-stemmed and fermented in vats. D'Angerville's Burgundian wizardry is more than evident in this elegant red.
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