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Lopez de Heredia, Rioja Crianza 'Cubillo', 2016

$33.99

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Maria José López de Heredia, who runs the domaine with her sister Mercedes, calls 2016 the last classical vintage in Rioja (save perhaps 2021). It is a vintage that yielded three Gran Reserva wines — Bosconia, Tondonia and Tondonia white, though these won’t be released for many years. The Cubillo offers a glimpse of how remarkable this vintage is: balanced and fresh, with vibrant red fruit and a core of chalky minerality.

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One of the many clichés employed by the wine world is the adjective “traditional”. However, there is one winery where that adjective very appropriately applies. Little about López de Heredia has changed in the more than 130 years since its founding. It occupies the same historic cellars and unlike most of their competitors, which are now owned by outside investors, López de Heredia is owned, and every detail of its operation is handled by the family who founded it.

Due to the way the industry has evolved in Rioja, most bodegas buy grapes from dozens of small growers, but not López de Heredia. They own every inch of the vineyards that supply their wines. In addition, they eschew any use of commercial yeasts and rely only natural yeasts present in their ancient cellar.

A visit to Lopez makes this all very clear. When you descend into the cellar you are met with a rush of cool air tinged with the telltale odor of penicillin. Carved out of solid rock, fifty feet underground, the cellars are at a constant 54 degrees, perfectly situated for the aging of wine and the cultivation of friendly microbes. The walls are black and wet with the occasional patch of white mold. Inside you will find 12,900 American oak barrels and 72 ancient fermenters as well as one of the worlds great collection of cobwebs.

The bodega is now in the capable hands of the family’s youngest generation—Maria José, Mercedes and Julio César. Yet, still nothing changes. In fact, these three are as philosophically committed to the winery’s traditions as their parents and grandparents were before them.

The wines are always masterful but in certain vintages can be transcendent. Lopéz labels their wines in all three rioja categories, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Technically almost all of their wines meet the regions criteria for Gran Reserva but as usual they do it the old ways, making Gran Reserva only in exceptional vintage.

Professional Reviews

Robert Parker

RP 94
"The 2016 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza was surprising, spectacular, elegant, clean and fresh like few vintages before. It was a superb year, with quality, quantity and freshness. It's quite the opposite from the previous 2015, which was a much warmer and riper year. The 2016s have moderate alcohol and especially the perception of less ripeness (even though the alcohol is very similar). It feels very young, still quite primary. Mercedes explained, "Cubillas, a 24-hectare plot, is a vineyard that could produce Gran Reserva wines. It's a very good vineyard, but we would miss the Crianza in our range". In fact, the comment was that this vintage is even a challenge for the Viña Tondonia red "because of its price." It is indeed a bargain. "But it doesn't have the finesse of Tondonia," concluded María José. Anyway, it's super tasty." -Robert Parker

What importer Bowler Wine has to say about this wine...

This vineyard is two miles away from the winery at an altitude of 1,348 feet above sea level; the vines are an average age of 40 years of age. The soil is from the terciaria age, composed of clay and limestone. The surface is 24 hectares, and is planted to Tempranillo, Garnacho, Mazuelo and Graciano. Historically the wines from that vineyard were called "Special Harvest", but is now the source of their Viña Cubillo.

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Grenache , Other Red Grape , Red Blend , Tempranillo

  • Vintage

    2016

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Elegant , Spicy

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Customer Reviews

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