“Less is more”. That’s the philosophy of Giusto Occhipinti — the ‘O’ in the acronym COS, a benchmark winery in the Vittoria region of Sicily. A winemaker should shepherd his wines to where they need to go, not fundamentally change them.

COS proved that southern Sicily could make truly great wines, as fresh and subtle as they are sunny and joyful. The sea breezes and elevation help; but the real key is the soils. They decided from the time of their founding that they’d take care of those soils in all their farming decisions. They've never used synthetic or chemical additives in the vineyard and they've been certified biodynamic for over 20 years.

COS wines typically hover between 11.5 and 12.5% abv. The limestone- and iron-rich soils are low in nutrients, forcing the vines to delve deep into the ground in search of water and inhibiting sugar development. Lower sugar = lower alcohol levels in the finished wines. For many, high alcohol levels are (or were) a mark of a wine’s pedigree and age-worthiness, but COS offers plenty of proof that acidity, minerality, and tannins play as much of, if not more, of a part.

This isn’t Etna, so there’s no Nerello to be seen. The red wines are either Frappato, Nero d’Avola or a blend of the two, while whites are Grecanico Dorato, Zibbibo, Grillo or Insolia. They produce wonderfully aromatic wines that belie the hot environment, and beautifully convey limestone minerality, accented by Mediterranean salt and herbs.

Today, we’re offering two of our all-time favorite COS wines, an exuberant, fragrant Frappato, and Rami, a skin-contact Inzolia-Grecanico blend. The former is juicy and gently spicy, the latter elegant and mineral-driven, a skin-contact wine to convince die-hard orange wine lovers and neophytes alike.

COS, Frappato, 2022 $29.99
“Remarkably pretty, the 2022 Frappato opens with a cascade of violets and lavender, giving way to citrus and blackberries. It's soft and soothing on the palate with ripe wild berry fruits and licorice motivated by crisp acidity. It finishes long and with a liquid floral staining, yet freshness is expertly maintained through it all. The 2022 goes down far too quickly and at just 12.5% abv.” — Eric Guido, Vinous

COS, Rami, 2022 $29.99
“The 2022 Rami, a blend of Inzolia and Grecanico, entices with its dusty florals and subtle lemony citrus tones that slowly give way to ginger-tinged apples. This is soft and supple on the palate, with a savory blend of exotic spices and flinty orchard fruits. Brisk acidity maintains a lovely inner freshness as the 2022 finishes perfumed and lightly structured. An apricot suggestion lingers on.” EG