Tino Kuban's Chardonnay, bottled with nothing more grand on the label than Vin de France — which is the only humble thing about it. Kuban spent 2015 through 2017 working with Mullineux in South Africa, Felton Road in New Zealand, Pierre Overnoy in the Jura and Dard & Ribo in Hermitage, an apprenticeship that reads like a wish list for anyone drawn to low-intervention wine, before he bought Bernard van Berg's Meursault estate and renamed it Les Jardins Vivants. Maison Glandien is the negoce he runs alongside it, and it is a negoce in the narrowest sense: grapes only from a short list of suppliers he knows personally, drawn from the Cote Chalonnaise around Mercurey, Cheilly-les-Maranges, Saint-Jean-de-Vaux and Aluze, plus the Hautes-Cotes de Beaune. Those are the addresses savvy Burgundy drinkers have been mining for years now that the famous villages have priced themselves out, and in hands this exacting they give white Burgundy with real tension and detail. Think of it as buying the winemaking and the farming rather than the appellation. Currently backordered, which tells you how quickly these move.