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Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa, 2009

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Sarmassa is one of the historic crus of Barolo village itself, a southeast-facing slope of Tortonian calcareous clay carrying a significant share of stones — poor ground that limits the vine and makes for a structured, long-lived style, quite different from the perfumed, harmonious wines the neighboring Cannubi ridge gives. The house behind it is the one that essentially invented dry Barolo: the cellars trace to Marchesa Giulia Falletti, who in the early 1800s set Nebbiolo up to ferment out fully and age in large oak, and they have been in the Abbona family since 1929. The 2009 was a warm, generous vintage that gave ripe fruit and comparatively accessible tannins, and after fermentation in steel with about ten days on the skins the wine aged partly in large Slavonian casks and partly in French barrique before being blended back into big oak. Seventeen years on it is drinking in a lovely mature register. Stand the bottle upright a day ahead and decant it off the sediment.

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Antonio Galloni

88 points

"The 2009 Barolo Sarmassa is dark, rich and more powerful than the Coste di Rose, but stylistically it is quite similar. Dark red and blue fruit, spices, menthol, licorice and French oak all flesh out on the finish. This is another solid effort. Still, I find myself wanting more from the Marchesi, the most historic winery in Barolo." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

92 points

"Enhanced by dark structure and concentration, 2009 Barolo Sarmassa is laced with spice, leather and tobacco carefully woven into its dense fabric. The tannic structure is there for aging, but like many wines in 2009, its drinking window will be undoubtedly be shorter compared to other years." —Monica Larner

Kerin O'Keefe

88 points

"This is an internationally-styled Barolo, with oak-driven aromas of toasted wood and roasted coffee beans. The palate shows black fruit flavors layered with oak, vanilla and espresso, accompanied by astringent wood tannins." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Marchesi di Barolo

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2009

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Brasato al Barolo, agnolotti del plin in roasting juices, roast lamb, or a plate of aged Castelmagno. Mushroom and truffle dishes are the classic match for mature Nebbiolo.

Tasting Profile

Dried cherry and rose petal moving into tar, leather, tobacco and forest floor. Medium to full-bodied and dry, with high acidity and tannins that have softened into a fine, dusty grip. Long, savory, classically Nebbiolo finish.