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Nikolaihof, Steiner Hund Kremstal Riesling, 2017

White Wine from Wachau, Austria
by Nikolaihof
$96.99
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Eight years in and still buttoned-up. Nikolaihof is one of the world's pioneer biodynamic estates, farmed by the Saahs family from a property whose vineyard records stretch back to the 5th century and Demeter-certified since 1971. The Steiner Hund is a steep single-vineyard in the Kremstal, just east of the Wachau, with thin humus over primary rock. The 2017 is bottled dry and aged 2.5 years in large old oak casks. For a warm vintage, it's remarkably restrained: 12.5% alcohol, flint and crushed-rock minerality, quince and pomelo fruit, and a tight, tensile palate that's only beginning to unfurl. A long-lived, classical Austrian Riesling that earns the patience it asks for.

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Antonio Galloni

95 points

"The 2017 Riesling Steiner Hund, formerly called Reserve, was grown in Stein on terraced, stony vineyards across the Danube, and is thus labeled Niederösterreich. Subtle peach and straw on the nose have the slightest floral overtone. Concentrated, buffered and intense, the palate is vivid, with lemony, waxy, yeasty brightness. Those flavors arrive and persist with depth that is long, lasting, enticing and appetizing in its super-salty style." —Anne Krebiehl MW

Robert Parker

94 points

"The 2017 Ried Steiner Hund Riesling is pure, precise, coolish and flinty as well as herbal on the nose. Tight, fresh, intense and mineral on the palate, this is a pure, bright, fresh and energetic, savory and very persistent Riesling with stimulating character and a long, complex finish without too much power. In fact, it is a rather light yet dense and intense Hund. This is what Riesling can do: inspire, salivate and entertain. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in January 2025." —Stephan Reinhardt

More about Nikolaihof

Austria's oldest vineyard with almost two millennia of history. The Im Weingebirge site dates to the 5th century, when Roman soldiers occupied the Wachau. Nikolaihof has been Demeter-certified biodynamic since the 1970s—one of the first in Europe to embrace the practice. The wines are minerally, precise, and feel like touching something very old and very alive.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2017

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Pair with Wiener Schnitzel, roast chicken with herbs, halibut in beurre blanc, or a wedge of aged Alpine cheese. The mineral cut and restraint also pull beautifully with simple sushi, oysters, and grilled white fish.

Tasting Profile

Flint, crushed rock, quince, and pomelo on the nose. Dry, light-yet-dense on the palate, with cool wet-stone minerality interlaced with elegant acidity. Tight and still primary at 8 years; long, savory, and discreet on the finish.

Nikolaihof is a trailblazing traditionalist: Biodynamic since 1971, its written winemaking history goes all the way back the monks who farmed there in the 5th Century (no, there’s no missing digit there). Today the family still practices an integrated farming like the monks did, involving farms without herbicides, pesticides or artificial sprays, making the wine with natural fermentations and ancient Austrian oak in their 700 year old cellar.

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