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Pierre Gonon, Saint-Joseph, 2013

$229.00
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Benchmark Saint-Joseph from one of the Northern Rhône's most beloved family domaines, in the firmest and slowest-moving vintage of this run. Pierre and Jean Gonon farm steep, granite slopes in Mauves, the historic heart of the appellation directly across from the Hermitage hill, with which they share the same granitic bedrock. They farm organically (no chemicals since 2004; later certified), harvest by hand, and ferment whole-ish clusters with native yeasts in the traditional way, producing Syrah of remarkable purity and finesse rather than brute power. 2013 was cold and wet right through June, flowering never set properly and the crop came in small and late; a sunny September with cool nights then lifted the sugars while holding on to acidity. The result is a taut, structured Saint-Joseph that has taken its time, and at thirteen years it is only now unwinding — savory and peppery, with the acid spine still plainly there. Cellar-sourced, and the pick here if you want to go on drinking Gonon into the 2030s.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"The 2013 Saint-Joseph begins to glow aromatically with tobacco leaves, forest floor and dried black fruits. Showing impeccable freshness on the medium-bodied palate, the 2013 emerged from a cold growing season that resulted in the latest harvest date ever recorded at Domaine Pierre Gonon, finishing on October 10. Anchored by a firm tannic core that lends well-etched structure, the 2013 may never be a charmer, instead highlighting elegant austerity with outstanding precision on the savory-spiced resolution. Brief decanting is recommended." —Nicolas Greinacher

Robert Parker

92 points

"I continue to love the 2013 St Joseph and it's a classic, elegant beauty that offers lots of minerality, purple fruits, olive, pepper and liquid violets characteristics. Possessing medium-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannin and a lively, already hard to resist style, drink it anytime over the coming decade." —Jeb Dunnuck

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Steak au poivre, roast lamb with rosemary, braised short ribs, grilled quail, aged Comté and Beaufort.

Tasting Profile

Black cherry, cracked pepper, olive and iron. Medium-bodied and firmly structured, with fine but still-present tannins, high-toned acidity and a long, mineral, savory finish.