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Pierre Gonon, Saint-Joseph, 2019

$189.00
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Benchmark Saint-Joseph from one of the Northern Rhône's most beloved family domaines, from a hot, concentrated vintage that is still finding its feet. Pierre and Jean Gonon farm steep, granite slopes in Mauves, the historic heart of the appellation directly across from the Hermitage hill, with which they share the same granitic bedrock. They farm organically (no chemicals since 2004; later certified), harvest by hand, and ferment whole-ish clusters with native yeasts in the traditional way, producing Syrah of remarkable purity and finesse rather than brute power. 2019 was hot and dry, with small berries and reduced yields, but late-season rain and cool nights stretched the ripening out, so the wines carry serious concentration and tannin alongside unexpected freshness. At seven years the 2019 is still primary and tightly wound, its fruit dark and its structure unresolved. From a private cellar; a cellar bottle first and foremost — give it several more years, or a couple of hours of air if you cannot wait.

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Antonio Galloni

95 points

"I am totally hooked by the flamboyance of the 2019 Saint-Joseph. Vinified with around 90% whole-clusters and checking in at 14.2% alcohol, the 2019 bursts with pronounced intensity of black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, crushed violets, licorice and earthy gradations. Discrete pencil shaving nuances add a ferrous dimension. Showing slightly grippier tannins compared to the more polished 2020, I suspect the 2019 will need a few more years to come around. Hitting the palate with a juicy core of ripe black fruits all balanced by refreshing acidity, this is a sexy Saint-Joseph that will stand the test of time." —Nicolas Greinacher

Robert Parker

94 points

"Gonon's 2019 Saint Joseph retains the typical floral signature on the nose, but it is more dark-fruited than usual, with notes of black cherries, blackberries and even black olives. It's medium to full-bodied, the first vintage recorded over 14% alcohol, according to Jean Gonon (14.2%). Concentrated, rich and velvety in feel, it boasts a long, gently chewy finish and should age well." —Joe Czerwinski

Jancis Robinson

18 points

"What an expressive nose! Brooding spice, black-olive and meaty undertones with an earthy tequila-type note. A snappy and focused palate with great density and intensity of fruit. Then black pepper and clove spice blends with ripe blackberry – saline and fresh. The fine tannins tickle the juicy, succulent and vibrant palate – supremely tasty and pleasurable."

Decanter

95 points

"Deeply aromatic with violets and Kalamata olives, it's wildly resinous with a touch of black cherry. Medium- to full-bodied, it's more concentrated and fresher than most Saint-Josephs this year. It has the classic depth and texture of Gonon's Saint-Joseph, thick and alive, like a jungle. Very long finish with a floral lift. A big vintage here - increasingly the norm. Better freshness and lower alcohol heat than most in 2019."

More about Pierre Gonon

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Syrah

  • Vintage

    2019

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Rib roast, venison, wild boar ragù, braised lamb shoulder, aged sheep's-milk cheeses.

Tasting Profile

Dark berries, graphite, pepper and a hint of smoked meat. Concentrated and full, with firm, youthful tannins, good acidity and a long, tight finish.