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Giovanni Rosso's Langhe Nebbiolo: From Serralunga with Love

 

“While this isn’t one of the best known Barolo estates, it is one of the best, and I really appreciate this traditional style, allowing the beauty of the Nebbiolo grape to express a real sense of place.”
—Jaime Goode, wineanorak.com

 
Davide Rosso may have learned winemaking in Burgundy, but we wouldn’t dare describe his Barolos as ‘Burgundian.’ No, they are pure Piedmont: traditional and terroir-driven, yet refined. Coming from a family with deep regional roots that’s probably the way it should be.

The Rosso family had been growing and selling grapes from some of the choicest parcels in Serralunga d’Alba since the late 19th century, selling fruit to clients like Bruno Giacosa and Guiseppe Mascarello. Eventually, Giovanni Rosso decided to produce his own wines rather than sell grapes, and so founded the family winery in 1995.

His son Davide took the reins in 2001, raising the estate’s profile and reputation. Today, Giovanni Rosso is one of the most respected producers in Serralunga. And that is saying something when you take into consideration that Barolo heavyweights like Giacomo Conterno and Cappellano are their neighbors! 

What’s more, Giovanni Rosso makes excellent wine at every level – including their entry-priced Langhe Nebbiolo. It’s sourced primarily from their Serralunga holdings, showing some of the power and flavor characteristics (ripe cherries and dried herbs) that the region is renowned for.

But like most Langhe Nebbiolos, it’s shaped into something that can be enjoyed immediately, with no hard, tannic edges. As he does with the Barolos, Davide ferments the Langhe Nebbiolo in cement, but maceration time is reduced to make a more supple, fruit-forward wine. Aging, done in large botti, lasts 6 months.

With its silkiness and ripe-but-fresh fruit, the 2018 Langhe Nebbiolo provides an auspicious glimpse of what is likely to be another celebrated Barolo vintage. It’s drinking beautifully now.

Giovanni Rosso, Langhe Nebbiolo, 2018