Sparkling Penedès from Mas Goma
The traditions of Catalonia are fiercely prized by its people — one needs only to turn on the news these days to see that. But the pride felt by the Catalan people extends to humbler, more everyday traditions, like that of sparkling wine made from Xarel-lo, Parellada and Macabeo.
Many of us know this type of wine as Cava, but several new classifications exist in this rugged, mountainous land, usually signifying a higher quality product.
In a way, the wines of Mas Goma are deeply traditional, and yet in other ways, they are groundbreaking.
Joan Vendrell is the fifth generation of Vendrells to tend the vines here (and his family’s home was built in 1724, indicating just how long his ancestors have claimed the land). And though he’s converted the estate to organic and biodynamic farming, he has realized that much of what he does would have been done by his grandfather--from extended skin contact or lees aging to natural practices.
Joan’s father made what was legally called Cava.
In recent years, a contingent of artisanal producers, typically those who farm organically or biodynamically, who eschew chemicals or manipulations, have moved away from the Cava appellation in favor of appellations like Clàssic Penedès or Conca del Riu Anoia.
As more and more Cava is made industrially — and well, soullessly, — those who are making authentic and handcrafted wines want to distance themselves from the swill. Mas Goma opts simply for the Penedès appellation, where they are free to make still wines, sparkling wines and even pet-eats.
And Mas Goma kinda has it all — passionate winemakers, limestone-rich soils which amplify the inherent elegance of the native Catalan varieties, and old vines. We’re talking vines over 60 years of age, which have over the decades sunk their roots deep into that chalky soil, soaking up minerality as they search for water and nutrients, vines which produce very few fruit, but wow, is that fruit concentrated and intensely flavored.
Winemakers like Joan tend to have an appreciation for sparkling wines as a gastronomic pleasure, a wine to pair with particular foods above anything else because of (and not in spite of) the bubbles.
What better way to wake up your palate than with a tiny, prickly mousse, for richly flavored dishes like paella or delicate ones like chilled seafood? We couldn’t agree more, and we are very excited to share their old vine sparkling wines with you today.
Mas Goma, Penedes Brut Nature 'El Creuer', NV
60% Xarel-lo and 40% Macabeo with 40 months aging on its lees before release.
From the man himself, “It is brut nature, without sugar added and with a lot of complexity from more than 40 months on the lees but at the same time, this limestone layer is still present thanks to mineral and salty flavours and freshness. It brings me to our estate immediately every time I taste it.”