Domaine Tatsis is run by two brothers: Stergios, who is in charge of the winemaking, and Pericles, who is in charge of vineyard management. Outwardly, they project gruffness: they ride ATVs and wear leather jackets with the swagger of a biker gang member. But who’s to say that bikers can’t be thoughtful and deeply deliberate?

Tatsis’ wines are distinctive and old school; in particular, we love how their elegant structures play against the strong earthy flavors. The Tatsis family has produced wine for countless generations, and though ethnically Greek, they didn’t make their way to Macedonia until the 1920s. Goumenissa and its winemaking traditions seemed the perfect fit, both because it’s an important place for winemaking, but also because it was a hub of silk production, just like their home region in Bulgaria.

The most important wine grape in Goumenissa is Xinomavro, which is in turn one of Greece’s most important red grapes, if not the most important. It’s often compared to Nebbiolo. Maybe because it’s one of Greece’s most noble grapes, and our human brains compel us to compare like things; maybe it’s because their shared characteristics are so memorable: they both have firm, grippy tannins, high acid, and flavors of raspberries, flowers, and baking spice.

The brothers' vineyards are vibrant and alive, with tons of biodiversity and happy, healthy vines. The farming is certified organic, and their wines are for all intents and purposes natural wines, though they bristle at the label. They were the first winery in Greece to be certified both organic and biodynamic.

We’re offering two Tatsis wines today. The first is their “Young Vines”, a fresh and easy drinking blend of Xinomavro and Negoska. Full of brambly cherry fruit, dried Mediterranean herbs and dusty tannins, it’s meant for casual enjoyment before dinner or during. The second, a 2013 Xinomavro, is a serious step up in terms of structure and intensity. A dozen years post-harvest, its primary fruit flavors of raspberry and pomegranate are no longer at center stage, allowing secondary flavors of leather, earth, mushroom, and Luxardo cherry to shine.

These philosophical bikers are producing some of Greece’s most soulful and traditional wines, while deeply respecting the earth and its health. These are gems from one of the oldest parts of the Old World, and we’re very happy to share them with you today:

Tatsis, Xinomavro-Negoska Young Vines, 2019 $19.99

Tatsis, Macedonia Xinomavro, 2013 $37.99