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Nikolaihof, Riesling Vom Stein Federspiel, 2015

White Wine from Wachau, Austria
$49.99
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Ten years on, this is a welcome chance to see what Nikolaihof's patient, old-school approach does for a Wachau Riesling. Vom Stein is a small parcel at the eastern edge of the Silberbichl vineyard, just south-east of the village of Mautern. Here 60 to 120 centimetres of loess and topsoil sit over mica-flecked gneiss before the roots reach bedrock, and Nikolaihof is the only winery that bottles the site on its own. The house is slow by design: spontaneous fermentations and long rests on the full lees in big casks around 40 years old. The estate has been Demeter-certified biodynamic since 1998, long before anyone called it fashionable. Niki Saahs, Christine and Nicholas's son, carries it on today with nettle, valerian and horsetail preparations. Written records of winemaking here go back to 470 A.D., which makes Nikolaihof Austria's oldest winery, and the wines seem in no more hurry than the estate itself. For anyone who thinks Austrian Riesling is only for drinking young, this bottle makes the case against.

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Antonio Galloni

91 points

"Weighing in at just 11.5 percent alcohol, this is brimming with ripe apple and white peach, while scents and flavors of almond, moss, and wet stone add subtle complexity. A smoky, resinous, reductive topnote puts me in mind of hops, while an alluring gentian perfume haunts this entire performance. A palate presence that is surprisingly lush, silken and expansive for a Riesling Federspiel in no way precludes levity, clarity or primary juiciness. Subtle hints of wet stone and moss add intrigue to the lusciously lingering finish, but it will be interesting to discover whether further and more decisive mineral traits emerge with time in bottle." —David Schildknecht

More about Nikolaihof

Austria's oldest vineyard with almost two millennia of history. The Im Weingebirge site dates to the 5th century, when Roman soldiers occupied the Wachau. Nikolaihof has been Demeter-certified biodynamic since the 1970s—one of the first in Europe to embrace the practice. The wines are minerally, precise, and feel like touching something very old and very alive.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2015

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Wiener schnitzel with lemon and Austrian potato-cucumber salad; pan-fried trout with brown butter and almonds; smoked char or trout on dark rye with horseradish cream; Vietnamese summer rolls with herbs and nuoc cham.

Tasting Profile

Expect a dry, mid-weight Wachau Riesling in Nikolaihof's patient style: lime, white peach and apricot over stony minerality, with gentle creaminess from long lees ageing in old, neutral casks. Acidity is bright and firm and the finish long and savoury; built to age, it typically gains honeyed, herbal depth (think a lighter-framed dry Alsace Riesling).