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Nikolaihof, Steiner Hund Riesling, 2013

White Wine from Wachau, Austria
$89.99
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A Smaragd-calibre Riesling that isn't allowed to call itself one. The Steiner Hund is a steep single vineyard in the Kremstal, just east of the Wachau. Because it sits just outside the Wachau's borders, Nikolaihof can't use the Smaragd name. It doesn't even sell the wine under the Kremstal appellation. What the site does have is a very stony mix of primary rock and river pebbles under a thin layer of humus, and that is exactly where Nikolaihof's mighty minerality comes from. The farming is biodynamic, and the estate itself, in Mautern, is about as old-school as wine gets: the site was originally chosen by the Romans, and it is one of the oldest wine estates in Austria. A 2013 gives you a rare chance to see what more than a decade in bottle does to one of Austria's most traditional Rieslings, and it's for anyone who suspects the best Austrian whites aren't meant to be drunk young.

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Antonio Galloni

97 points

"Bottled in June 2016, this texturally silken, supremely elegant effort transparently and kaleidoscopically combines moss, wet stone, gentian, buddleia, coriander, pepper, piquant yet rich nut oils and a saline clam broth savor that milks the salivary glands. But besides this impressive array of non-fruity components, white peach and lemon deliver abundant primary juiciness and animating tang, rendering the finish as invigorating and refreshing as it is vibrant, mouthwatering and dynamically complex. Given all of the experience we now have with Austrian Riesling and Grüner Veltliner of this vintage, high hopes were bound to have been riding on the latest edition of Steiner Hund. Happily, they have not been disappointed! (And in another decade or two, we can look forward to the bottling and release of at least one 2013 installment in the Nikolaihof’s Vinothek collection.)" —David Schildknecht

Robert Parker

93 points

"The golden-yellow colored 2013 Steiner Hund Riesling opens with an intense and concentrated dark fruit aroma with flinty notes of perfectly ripe and concentrated stone fruits. On the palate, this is a rich, ripe, pure, finessed and concentrated Riesling with great elegance and a very long and aromatic finish, stimulating salinity and flavors of marjoram. It is a great and complex dry Riesling that weighs in at just 12.5% alcohol. It is marketed as Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), although it comes from the Kremstal; but, for several reasons Nikolaus Saahs doesn't want to follow the DAC system." —Stephan Reinhardt

Jancis Robinson

17 points

"Intense and almost peachy on the nose. Sour freshness on the palate, with a little note of orange. Botrytis? Spicy freshness on the long finish. Really mouth-watering and already complex."

More about Nikolaihof

Austria's oldest vineyard with almost two millennia of history. The Im Weingebirge site dates to the 5th century, when Roman soldiers occupied the Wachau. Nikolaihof has been Demeter-certified biodynamic since the 1970s—one of the first in Europe to embrace the practice. The wines are minerally, precise, and feel like touching something very old and very alive.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2013

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Wiener Schnitzel with lingonberry, pan-fried trout with brown butter and almonds, roast chicken with herbs, halibut in beurre blanc, or a wedge of aged Alpine cheese like Bergkäse or Comté.

Tasting Profile

Expect a dry, powerful Riesling in the traditional Austrian mould: ripe stone fruit, lemon peel and a pronounced, stony minerality from the rocky site, over a medium-to-full body and firm, bright acidity. Think of a fuller, drier take on German Riesling. Wines of this style are built to age, typically gaining savoury, nutty depth with time while finishing long and dry.

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