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Nikolaihof, Steinriesler Riesling, 2004

White Wine from Wachau, Austria
$139.99
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A dry Wachau Riesling from 2004 is a rare thing to find on a shelf two decades later, and Nikolaihof is just the kind of estate whose wines you'd want to see at that age. The house is one of the oldest in Austria. Its written winemaking history goes back to the monks who farmed here in the 5th century, on what is now a 22-hectare estate in Mautern, in the Danube valley. Nikolaihof went biodynamic in 1971, long before anyone treated that as a selling point, and the family still farms without herbicides, pesticides or artificial sprays. If you think of Austrian Riesling as something to drink young, here's your chance to find out what time does to a dry one from a grower that has never been in a hurry. It's a bottle for curious drinkers more than label collectors: open it with friends who like to talk about what's in the glass.

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Antonio Galloni

95 points

"Having been bottled in April 2016, this received a shorter stay in cask than its three Steinriesler predecessors. (The vineyard source is Vom Stein. On the origins of Nikolaihof Steinriesler, readers are referred to my inaugural Austrian report for Vinous; and for the origins of the name “Steinriesler,” to my review in the subsequent report of the vintage 2002 installment.) A nose mingling gentian, elderflower, seaweed, mussels, salt spray and chicken stock is about as intriguing and far from fruity as the nose of any Riesling can be. Sage, fennel, peach kernel, lemon, alkali and wet stone all chime in on the silken, buoyant (11.5 percent alcohol) palate, rendering a carpet of richness and intricate complexity that unrolls in a mouthwateringly saline finish of polished and prodigious length. Nor does this bottling forget Riesling’s first duty to refresh. Those unfamiliar with Nikolaihof Vinothek bottlings, or who have not stopped to contemplate the chemistry of maturation in a large cask that’s effectively sealed with tartrate deposits, may be surprised at how little old oak flavor or sense of oxidative evolution this wine displays, and what hints of both are present merely enhance its multifaceted depth." —David Schildknecht

Robert Parker

94 points

"Aged for 11 years in a 5,000-liter barrel, Saahs' yellow-golden colored 2004 Riesling Steinriesler is based on the Vom Stein Riesling Federspiel. Very clear and perfectly ripe on the delicate nose and provided with ripe and stewed apple aromas, this is a light but lush and complex Riesling with rich extract and lingering intensity but with the vitality and finesse of a great wine. The finish is slightly bitter but persistently salty/mineral and tensioned. Great expression of terroir with 11.5% alcohol. Bottled in April 2016. Tasted at the Nikolaihof in Mautern/Wachau, September 2018." —Stephan Reinhardt

Wine Enthusiast

98 points

"Swirl this awake to reveal a world of dried hayflower, lemon peel and tart, baked apple. Its lifted, elixir-like chamomile scent goes straight to the pleasure center of the brain, signaling a celebration of maturing Riesling. Dry, taut and fresh, it shimmers with lemon zest and lemon-scented incense. Although immensely concentrated, it's also quite lithe. Treasure this, with its deep, lingering flavors. Lovely now, it will continue to develop. Drink now–2040." —Anne Krebiehl MW

More about Nikolaihof

Austria's oldest vineyard with almost two millennia of history. The Im Weingebirge site dates to the 5th century, when Roman soldiers occupied the Wachau. Nikolaihof has been Demeter-certified biodynamic since the 1970s—one of the first in Europe to embrace the practice. The wines are minerally, precise, and feel like touching something very old and very alive.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Wiener schnitzel with potato-cucumber salad; roast pork loin with apples and caraway; pan-fried trout with brown butter and almonds; smoked whitefish on rye; aged Comté or Bergkäse.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic dry Wachau Riesling profile in Nikolaihof's restrained, large-cask style: peach, citrus peel and a stony, mineral edge on a taut, medium-bodied frame with firm acidity. With bottle age, dry Riesling like this typically develops honeyed, toasty notes and finishes long, dry and savoury. Think of a leaner, more mineral take on dry Alsace Riesling.

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